'89 626 drums...again!

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:Zdnki.2696$nQ4.1770@trndny01:

Do the drums wiggle even a little, or are they rock solid?

They are on there pretty tight. I think I got one to move about 1mm, but who can be sure at that amount?!

If the brake cylinders are bolted in from the outside of the backing plate, remove the lines and mounting bolts. Push the cylinder into the drum area trying to move the shoe contact points off the contact points of the cylinder pistons. That my allow the shoes to fall into each other just enough to remove the drum. If there are shoe spring holders that lock into the backing plate you can remove them with a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers by turning them by the little tip of the pin that protrudes through the plate. If all else fails you can use a really big slide hammer that will pound the drums off. That is not the preferred method because it can damage brake components, but it does work. Sometimes the shoes are so far worn into the drums that the adjuster will not back off enough. Do all you can first before you resort to the slide hammer.

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:GGoki.3360$lY4.3258@trndny07:

Do you have a shop manual for that car?

You may want to post your question to rec.autos.tech. There are a number of professional techs there who are familiar with Mazda products.

"Ph@Boy" wrote in news:noSdnS5xpb6fqw_bnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@trueband.net:

I've seen that. When that happens, I grind off the back of the shoe hold- down pins so I can lever the shoes/drums away from the backing plate. This sometimes gives access to the adjuster, depending on where it's located in the drum.

I forgot to mention to make sure that the drum is not hung up or bound on the center flange of the axle (where the axle fits through the center of the drum). Sometimes you have to use penetrating oil and or a torch / slide hammer to break it free. I don't know if your Mazda is constructed like that Hachi , but if you can turn the drum and axle assembly by hand, it might be the problem, or part of it. Just a thought.

"Ph@Boy" wrote in news:cbGdnb-4DPg-GQ_bnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@trueband.net:

That's why I asked Hachi if he had a manual for the car.

The only Mazda I'm familiar with is my old '74 RX-4, which had manually adjustable rear drum brakes (yes!). This vehicle had the sort of drums that slip over the hub, not the kind that contain a bearing race.

If Hachi's Mazda uses the same kind of no-bearing drum, then it is probably rusted on the hub and needs to be shocked loose. Comboverfish has already suggested this approach in his post in rec.autos.tech.

I have found that penetrating oil does no good in these cases. Light and numerous hammer blows judiciously applied are far more effective. Rust is brittle and easily fractured.

No, this car has a bearing inside the drum...

Hachi,

I just did a quick net search and from all indications (checked a site called car parts team/not advocating them, just for reference), the rear brake drums are not hubless. you need to remove the spindle nut and bearing to get it off. In the worst case scenario, as some one else mentioned, you should disconnect the brake line and mounting bolts for the wheel cylinder and yank the hole drum off. It would work easier if you have a slide hammer. If you do go that route, be sure you get a replacement brake hardware kit since the retaining clips or pins will be destroyed. There's probable a big lip on the outer edge of the drum, preventing easy removal.

Another thing I forgot to mention, it'd be a good idea to replace the spindle nut when you put everything back. The spindle and axle nuts are the staked in place type. I used to strike the side edge of a chisel to lock them in place.

Of course, if the nut wasn't too badly damaged when removed, I'd reuse it.

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:O1Aki.818$mS3.438@trnddc03:

Are you *quite* certain?

If so, then you need to remove the nut that holds the bearing on before the drum will come off. This entails removing the center cap from the hub, then a Cotter pin, nut cover, then the nut itself.

If this is the kind of drum that contains a bearing race, then removal is trivially easy. The nut will be held on with literally one pound of torque, or less.

Can you take a photograph of the unit?

I already had them off, twice, and restaked them, twice!

And, I have two brand new one in the event I *EVER* get these drums off!! ;)

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:pdBki.6331$t05.3048@trndny09:

Aw, you've got the old-fashioned "integral bearing" type drum. Falling-off-a-log easy. Dates from about 1920. Maybe earlier.

If this piece won't come apart, then the shoes are worn into the drums, or there is a majorly big rust ridge.

You say you can't see the circular ends of the shoe hold-down pins? Those are ALWAYS visible from the back of the backing plate. A bit of Dremel work and Bob's your uncle.

That information would have been helpful up front! (or down back)

Dude, I can't remember my name half the time, let alone being present enough to take a cute Japanese girl out to lunch! ;)

There's freakin' Bob again!!!

I'm trying to do this without cutting anything off; also, it doesn't feel like the drum is hanging on the shoes. I know what that's like since my Grand Voyager was hung on the shoes...

LOL! Old age will do that to ya!

Oh, and BTW, see if there is a rubber plug on the face of the drum. I don't know if this is true for your car, but I seem to recall that some brakes are adjusted through a slot in the drum instead of in the backing plate.

Would that were the case. Nope. No rubber plugs anywhere to be found.

Guess there are a few things Mazda needs to learn from Toyota...