It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
After doing a LOT of looking around, I decided I didn't want to run a 240V line and that this was the best out of everything on the market.
The sale ended today, BUT I went online and got the sale price. It also comes with a 10 PC tool kit, which irritates me, cause it's the same tools I bought on E-Bay! I got them much cheaper on E-Bay, so I'll use them and leave the new ones in the case until the ones I bought burn out..
Congratulations! Don't forget to drain the tank every so often, and put a drop of air tool oil into the air tool before each use.
So now all you need now is a million party balloons?
I can't separate out Helium!
Oh well, I bought the 33 gal 240 volt. I bought it cheap off the floor. Yep. I had to install a 240 volt line, but my mistake was to use 2 conductor
10AWG romex, because I later needed a neutral conductor for 110 volts to power a contactor transformer and for lighting. This unit stays in one place, so no regrets about the 240 volts.
I have enough trouble with Electricity as it is!!! The wirig has never been updated from it's 1957 origins, and am still running fuses.
I suppose, if I had bought the 240V model, it would have provided the impetus to get the electrical upgraded...
What's the CFM rating on the 240V model?
It's not on the unit, but I remember 12+ CFM @ 40 and 8+ CFM at 90, but don't quote me on that!
Holy Crap! That'll run almost anything without wheezing!
You're right about that - it's only in the atmosphere in trace concentrations, and there's no easy or cheap way to make it yourself.
If you were running an air liquefaction plant and fractioning out the constituents to get Helium, you'd have many tons of LN2 and several tons of LOX (roughly 21% in air) to each pound of LHe.
If you want lots of Helium for cheap you sink a Natural Gas well in certain areas of Texas, filter the Helium out as a byproduct and sell it. Or you drill a Helium well and filter out the Natural Gas as a byproduct and sell it, depending on how you want to look at it. ;-P
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Now remember, no cheating and running any 120V loads AT ALL from one hot leg to ground unless it's an old clothes dryer or range/oven that is specifically grandfathered... There is to be no active current flowing on the safety ground wire for things like control transformers, work lights, etc., it is for safety ground only.
A 208V/240V/277V/480V to 120V control transformer isn't too expensive in the lower KVA ratings. (100W for ~$60, 150W for ~$75, and you can often get them surplus for less.) And it gets you legal again.
Look at the coil on the contactor - most of them are dual voltage and easily jumpered for the higher voltage. Then the only thing you need the transformer for is the work light.
The only time I install 2-wire Romex is for AC condensing units where you know they'll absolutely positively never need a neutral. Ovens, Ranges, Dryers, everything else gets 3-wire, or conduit.
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For years I had a 20 gal 5 hp 220 v compressor (from sears) I used a home made cord I plugged into the dryer receptacle when I needed a compressor. Now I have a upright that can hold 100 psi while running a air nozzle or sandblaster. MORE POWER! ( gruntgruntgrunt)
A 1 HP motor is still a 1 HP motor @ 120 volts or 230 volts. They both do the same job and use the same amount of energy all else being the same.
A air compressor that comes in 120 and 230 volt models most likely has the same motor on both compressors.
Dan
I guess I'll just fill the balloons with air!
You also saved yourself a bundle if you were going to have a licensed electrician do it. Here (Tucson, Arizona) a new 200 amp service panel installed runs between $900 and $1,400. I recently had 240v installed in my garage, one to run my compressor and another for a welder. Also put in more lights and LOTS of outlets. Expensive? Yea, but it sure is nice not to have to string extesion cords and power strips! jor
That's how I'm operating now...
I want to have an electrician friend come in and split the basement (the house is a sort of 'split level'; the front is at ground level and in the rear the basement is exposed) where my garage is and put in a sub panel for the garage and the other part, and take the load off the main panel.
Sorry to say it but your service main panel load includes a sub panel. But you may have unused electric dryer or stove/oven circuits passably that might power the sub.
GL Dan
Not sure I quite understand your comment to Hach, Dan. Anyhow, my old setup is common to older houses (mine was built in 1972). My service panel didn't have a main breaker and was somewhat damaged. Anyhow, I replaced it with a nice shiny 200 amp model and ran a 60 amp circuit to a new sub panel in the garage. The electrician punched through the roof, across, the roof about 100' or so and back through into the garage. I have my compressor on one 240v and have reserved another for a mig welder. I understand electical principles but don't have the confidence to take on a job like this one. I still have a pair of bird bill pliers burnt halfway through as a reminder of how powerful that stuff is! jor
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