Broken Radiator

So, in the process of trying to repair my fan clutch, I grasped the wrench and put my hand down in and SNAP! broke off the outlet at the filler neck that the tube for the Overflow bottle attaches to. It broke off just enough, of course, to NOT be able to reattach the overflow tube.

A couple of thoughts: Plug it? Get a piece of brakeline that will fit through the opening, put the broken piece on it and flange both ends in an attempt to seal it? Buy a new radiator? Whittle down the flanges there to strengthen the port so the tube will fit over it?

New radiator is ~$165-188 Aftermarket, ~$385-540 Toyota.

AAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!

Why the HELL did they make it out of PLASTIC?!?!?!?!

Reply to
Hachiroku
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Reply to
Ray O

The top tank should be attached to the core with a crimp-band. A decent radiator shop should be able to replace just the top tank, band, and gasket. Or, try dev-con.

Reply to
Ray O

I'm with Ray, Hach. There shouldn't be much if any pressure on that fitting so probably the 2 part would work. Get it clean and try - if not go with Rays other part.

Plastic equal weight savings.

Reply to
ron

Then your radiator cap may open and let out coolant every time you park.

I'd rather insert a piece of brass or copper tubing (hobby shops, crafts shops, and hardware stores sell brass) and epoxy or JB Weld it in place. I would roughen up the outside of the tubing with very coarse sandpaper and the inside of the plastic with a round wire brush since much or even most of the bond is mechanical (epoxy doesn't stick well to plastic). Don't bother with super glue since it won't stick well enough for a good repair but will stick well enough to be hard to remove and make further repair more difficult.

Radiator plastic is usually a type of nylon reinforced with glass fibers, and it can be repaired very well with a soldering iron (not torch -- much harder to use) and some identical plastic (not a nylon wire tie -- different nylon, won't stick). GM dealerships and radiator supplies sell rods of this plastic. If you buy a soldering iron, avoid anything with a cord shorter than 5' or that's not UL listed for safety. 25-40 watts is fine because plastic draws away much less heat than any metal. Buy an iron-plated tip as well since other tips corrode too easily.

Reply to
do_not_spam_me

Well, the way I see it, and I'm guessing here, that hole is covered by the rad cap until the sysem starts to overheat, and pressure build enough to push the seal up. So it should be sealed most of the time.

I took my fan off the Celica, and could feel the difference in the pressure the oil was making. I took the Supra fan clutch apart, and as usual, it was impossible to get the gasket back in place. They have one at Autozone for $86, but I have a $20 gift card. So, my only stopping point now is the radiator.

I still have the piece that broke off, and I have some model glue and a slodering iron...

That's exactly what I was just thinking...

But, how much can a piece of steel that small weigh?!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I still have the piece that broke off, and I have some model glue and a slodering iron...

It broke off jaggedly, and still fits snugly to the piece it broke off Hmmm.... from.

Reply to
Hachiroku

Plastic does not corrode like many metals do.

Reply to
Ray O

An auto parts house would have a plastic radiator repair kit containing fiberglass cloth and a two-part epoxy glue, same color as the radiator, black. Find a piece of thin wall tubing that fits nicely into the broken part and radiator holes. This will serve as a support. Glue all three parts together being careful not to plug the tube. You might even be able to apply a little fiberglass cloth but be careful; the radiator cap needs to fit.

When you mix the epoxy, do so in small batches just enough to do the job and a little more. This rather then mixing the two complete bags together in a one shot affair. Other glues might work or even fiberglass resin, but can?t say. If you do use glue, clean and abrade the area as best you can. This will remove oil, mold release compound and provide a decent gripping surface for the glue.

Plastic is lighter and cheaper then metals. As you have found out, not very impact resistant and prone to cracking in this application. Its use does keep the radiator replacement manufacturers and dealers in business though.

Reply to
toyomoho

This sounds like a good idea!

I am leary of abrading the surface like you said; it broke off jaggedly and fits together like a jigsaw puzzle. I can mate it to the broken piece, press it in a little and it stays there. I was wondering if I could use some sort of PVC glue or something like that. Thanks, this sounds like it might do the trick.

Um, I think I'll put the fan back in *BEFORE* I try repairing the radiator!!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

Damned small weight difference I'd guess.

I remember reading some years ago that the biggest hero of the year was a guy that figured out how to save $.03 on each muffler hanger!

Reply to
ron

I too would try something like that, with a reinforcing tupe inside. But be sure to get it clean and find the right glue that sticks to that particular type of plastic. Loctite have special glues for most materials, but they are expensive, so try to make friends with someone who uses such things.

Asbjørn

Reply to
Asbjørn

It depends on what year. Back in the 1980's, a guy applied the "Toyota" decals on the truckbeds made a suggestion that saved almost $0.25 per decal, and he got a huge bonus check!

Reply to
Ray O

If you need a new radiator, I would check

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I needed one a few years ago for an old pickup of mine and they beat dealers price here by half with a lifetime warrenty and shipping.

Reply to
Reasoned Insanity

Oh man I know that feeling. Some time back I cracked the top tank by climbing all over the engine bay to replace a missing bolt on the egr cooler. (took like 1/2 day grrr)

Anyway.... I planned on replacing the radiator and used JB weld as a band-aid on the big ole crack. (almost the whole width) But its been quite some time now and I doubt it will fail so I think it will just get painted black.

The problem you will probably run into is just getting everything to stay in place long enough to set up. JB weld takes a long time to cure and something with a faster cure time might be better.

Just make sure you sand the black paint off and wipe the area down with something like rubbing alcohol and it should be good to go.

GL Dan

Reply to
Danny G.

Hmmm...what about this:

I can't find any copper brass or even brake line that will fit well enough. I MAY be able to enlarge the hole .0010-.0015" and find a threaded fitting to put in there.

Coat the fitting with some adhesive, probably epoxy and then screw it in.

Any further damage at this point = new radiator... :(

Reply to
Hachiroku

Look for one of those ribbed tubing connectors - maybe one will fit. I'm not sure how epoxy will adhere to plastic. You may want to look for Dev-Con or something that will adhere to plastic and tolerate heat. Fortunately, the fitting is not under a lot of pressure. If that fails, look for a radiator shop that can just replace the upper tank, gasket, and crimp band. The weak link in the radiator used to be the crimp band - they would corrode and leak. A new band and gasket used to do the trick.

Reply to
Ray O

See my new thread... ;)

Reply to
Hachiroku

Model glue won't work since it's just solvent with plastic (probably styrene) dissolved into it, and it won't stick well at all to nylon. I recommended epoxy for the mechanical bond it can give to plastic, not the chemical bond. When welding the broken plastic back together, make a fairly deep groove along the crack before filling it in with more nylon. You may want to first practice welding the plastic on a stick of plastic rod made for radiator repair.

Some people may recommend epoxy radiator repair kits, but avoid them.

Reply to
do_not_spam_me

Thanks. All done! Check out the thread Success...?

Reply to
Hachiroku

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