Do I really need rear brakes?

Hi folks, This is a question about my Jeep, but I have built a trust with folks here and I wish to ask the generic opinion here please. It is at least about vehicles .

I have now got around to pulling off my rear drum to have a lookey at the rear brakes. The situation was that I failed for braking differential between the front and the rear brakes in the state inspection. The assumption was that the rear brakes were worn out at 90K miles. I had done the fronts some time ago. I was expecting to have to bring the drums down to the shop to have them cut while I swap out the shoe parts. To my surprise, it all actually looks to me to still be OK, with a lot of pad left.

I posted a few pictures (the first time I have done that - yep I am so proud...my daughter helped me there - links below) that I would like you to please look at and either confirm that I do not need new brakes or set me straight in whatever way I need it.

When I took off the drum, before I messed with the star adjuster, it seemed kind of loose to my uncalibrated feel. The drum was loose enough to rattle in my hand on the studs, it just would not come of due to the ridges in the drum. When I was adjusting the shoes to be able to get the drum off, I first moved it a bit in the wrong direction and it tightened up so the drum did not move. It seemed like there was a bit of adjusting done to get that far. It is all dry in there - no leaks.

So here is what I am thinking now. All I need to do is put it back together and adjust to wheel stoppage and then back off a bit so it moves with just a little resistance. Then try running it through inspection (which is free) again. Cool?

I am wondering at this point why they would need to be adjusted. Do they not self adjust when I back out of the garage every day? Is this something I need to do periodically? What is up with this?

Thanks folks for your insight. Tomes (also posted to other NGs)

The picture links: Entire assembly.

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of rear shoe
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of front shoe
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- no gouges at all on surface that is meeting up with the pads
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Reply to
Tomes
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"Tomes" wrote in news:fp78an$eua$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org:

Yup.

They should eventually adjust on their own, but it might take a while if you've really backed them off. If you want to drive slowly backwards, braking every few seconds for a few minutes, they will adjust more quickly.

That rust ridge is a real problem. Every time I remove drums I grind off that ridge, undercutting slightly in the process.

Be nice if you crossposted correctly. Since I have no idea which other groups you posted to, I remain unenlightened by any good advice you may receive in those other groups.

This is the right rear, isn't it?

Your setup looks like the kind that adjusts when you drive the vehicle in reverse.

You don't appear to need new shoes at this point. Are you at 1/8" or more thickness at any given point on each shoe? If so, they can be left a while longer.

It is critical that your rear brakes function correctly. Your front brakes were designed to act in concert with the rears, not by themselves. Plus the rear brakes help stabilize the rear of the car under hard braking.

Reply to
Tegger

"Tegger"...

So you recommend that I go get these cut since I have then off.

Yeah that is something I have forever been uncertain on. One gets villified if one crossposts to many groups but if one does not then folks do not see what is said to the thread in other groups. I posted this to alt.jeep-l and rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys as well as here.

yep

about 1/8" is what it it now.

agreed, and thanks Tegger.

Reply to
Tomes

Take it to the Jeep newsgroup!!!

(Usual answer I get when asking a generic question, but that's usually from someone who needs to find out what a car is... ;)

I would check the thickness on the drum and see if it's in spec at the lowest point, then take it to a brake shop to have it machined to get rid of those ridges.

However, being thrifty (read: Cheapskate) your idea of putting it back together and adjusting it should work. I have never heard of this test before, and I though Mass had an anal inspection!

I didn't have this type of brake on my Grand Voyager (single shoe) and I can't remember how I reset the adjuster... :( but, it wasn't adjusting properly until I put it back together. it looked fine when I took the drum off, but the adjuster wasn't working until I messed with it. I took the assy apart and then reinstalled it, and it worked just fine...

Good Luck!

Reply to
Hachiroku

"Jeff Strickland" wrote in news:_rItj.240$JF.124@trnddc01:

At 1/8" minimum, he's OK until at least late summer, unless he does a lot of driving. Personally, I wouldn't panic unless I found the shoes at 1/16" at the thinnest point (usually the bottom of the front shoe).

Of course replacement is definitely the best choice at this point, but if the OP had need to stretch things for whatever reason, he's not going to suffer damaged drums for quite a while yet.

Reply to
Tegger

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:dmItj.234$wG2.227@trndny09:

You must mean "single LEADING shoe", no?

Reply to
Tegger

I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier...

You're eventually going to need shoes anyway, so just go and buy them. They won't go stale on you.

Measure the thickness of those new shoes. Now pull both your drums off and measure the thickness of the THINNEST part on ALL of the installed four shoes. This is usually the bottom of the front (short) shoe.

  • Assume the new shoes are 3/16" thick. That's 0% worn.
  • Assume 1/16" at the thinnest point of any installed shoe to be 100% worn.
  • Assume your current shoes at their thinnest point are 1/8". That's 50% worn.

If it took you 30,000 miles to get to 50% worn, it will take approximately

30K more to get to 100% worn. Around 20-25K is when you inspect them. For most people, this would be between one and two years.

Rear drums, thankfully, are quite reliable, unlike rear disc brakes, and seizure due to corrosion is rare.

Reply to
Tegger

"Hachiroku ...

LOL I figured I would get that from someone

Yeah here in NJ we have these inspection stations that run the vehicle through a series of standard tests, like plugging in the OBD to look for codes, checking headlight aim, running the vehicle over a grid that tests for differing stresses when braking, shaking each wheel on a shaking pad, even testing the gas cap for pressure capacity. Other stuff too. The tests have evolved over the years (they don't stick the wand up the exhaust anymore unless it is a really old car), but it still is pretty rigorous.

I put it back together today and tightened it up moreso. Then did a lot of backing up and braking with both the foot and hand brakes to set it in real well. If it fails again I will just replace the stuff, no problem. Tomes

Reply to
Tomes

"Tegger" ...

Thanks Jeff and Tegger. I put it back together and will see how that tests out.

Reply to
Tomes

"Tegger" ...

OK here's the thing. It has taken me 90K miles to wear them out halfway.

90K miles. This is why I am thinking that I have a lot of miles left on them. I do not do a lot of braking; I coast a lot and plan the lights. The front disc pads went about 70K. Manual transmission. When I had stopped in at my local shop to find out how much it would cost to have them do it (about $330 bucks) they said that it might just be an adjustment and that they have seen Jeep Wranglers go a long time on original rear brakes. I suppose the wind resistance (shaped like a brick) does a lot of slowing down . Thanks for the help here, much appreciated. Tomes
Reply to
Tomes

Well, yeah, that too...

I was referring to the side-by-side appearance of the shoe. Mine were one continuous shoe.

Reply to
Hachiroku

So what is the deal with this side by side appearance? I have not seen this before. I am guessing that it is for venting purposes. Thoughts? Tomes

Reply to
Tomes

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:tBQtj.3794$FK2.1157@trndny08:

One continous shoe? What does that mean? Is Chrysler using Midland Steeldraulic brakes from 1925?

Reply to
Tegger

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