New valve seals or rebuilt cylinder head? Corolla

***1986 Toyota Corolla FWD Sedan, carb, single cam, 173,000 miles, 3-speed transaxle

We've had HEAVY white/blue smoke and MAJOR oil consumption for some time without changing the valve seals, but the car ran fine with no major problems. For less than a week, we have been experiencing a major problem that we attribute to a complete failure of one or more of the valve seals.

The car now makes a constant valve chatter or clicking sound ONLY when in gear and accelerating. When the transaxle is in PARK or NEUTRAL, no valve chatter or clicking is heard, even when the gas pedal is pressed.

The valve chatter and clicking is accompanied by a MAJOR loss in power. The car usually stalls when coming to a stop. When coming to a stop light, the transaxle must be shifted to neutral, and the gas predal pressed, to keep the engine from shutting off. To move the car again, we shift the transaxle to first gear, then FLOOR the gas pedal. If the gas pedal is not floored immediately after the transaxle is shifted into gear, the car will stall. Then the car moves at a snails pace, especially when going uphill, until some momentum builds up.

If valve seals completely burn away, what parts are slamming together to make the valve chatter or clicking sound while accelerating? Is the valve chatter and clicking caused by the fact that keepers, spring retainers, springs, and spring seats are loose without the oil seal, so when accelerating they vibrate against each other? Are the valve guides affected by a valve seal that has been completely burned away? Can replacing just the valve seals alone solve this problem? Do additional parts need to be replaced?

Or, is a rebuilt head the best option? If so, where is the best place to buy a rebuilt cylinder head and how much does it cost?

Reply to
Munchman
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I don't think you are hearing valve train noise because valve train noise would be evident whether it is in gear or in neutral and whether or not the engine was under load.

Clattering noise under load and loss of power sound more like pinging than valve train noise. Check the base ignition timing and see if ignition timing advances as RPM increases. If the timing doesn't advance, check the vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms. Make sure that the distributor doesn't have any engine oil under the cap. If there is engine oil there, the O-ring on the shaft is leaking and can be replaced.

Check for vacuum leaks - they can keep the ignition timing from advancing and cause a loss of power and poor idle.

The oil leaking into the engine may be due to leaking valve stem seals (not valve seals) or a problem with the piston rings. It is possible that deposits have built up in the combustion chamber due to the leaking oil, and these deposits can cause problems with the air/fuel mixture igniting at the incorrect time, causing the noises you're hearing. Higher octane fuel can reduce this effect somewhat but I doubt if it would cure the amount of pinging that you're describing. If higher octane fuel does not eliminate the pinging due to combustion chamber deposits, then the only cure is to remove the deposits. A service called "Motor Vac" may work, or a walnut shell blasting, or engine disassembly are the only ways to remove deposits.

Reply to
Ray O

It didn't run fine, there WERE major problems and the people around you didn't enjoy this a bit!!!

Reply to
FanJet

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