Stripped oil pan drain hole threads?

I have a 2003 Corolla.

I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug and suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug.

What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger size, or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil pan replaced?

Reply to
Ernie Sty
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The oil pan is probably the same for a number of years. If you have to replace it try a wrecking yard. As far as tightness goes, with a 3/8 drive ratchet I just grab the head of the ratchet handle,(where the socket attaches) instead of the handle itself and get it good and snug. It's hard to put a lot of torque on a bolt this way.

Reply to
max-income

This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't fit in many places in an engine compartment.

What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially getting them off)! I know different people have different hand strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So far we've got:

Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench.

Reply to
Brian

...aaand as tight as possible plus a half turn...

Reply to
Gord Beaman

Look up the torque specs for the oil drain plug and use a good torque wrench. 'Hand tight" means far different torques depending on if Arnold is turning wrench or I am attempting to turn it when my carpal tunnel is complaining.

Reply to
ma_twain

What's this 'wrench' talk when you're describing hand tight?...hand tight is hand tight, as tight as you can get it using your....(wait for it now.......) hand!

Reply to
Gord Beaman

But that's the whole stupid &^%$()#_ problem!! "Hand tight" is way too loose of a spec when it really matters. And even when it doesn't.

One person's "hand tight" is another person's "Who put this on here, a gorilla?" or a third's "it was just about to fall off". ;-P

The hand strength and the leverage access of the person to the wrench is one huge variable, how far out on the wrench they are gripping (how much leverage multiplication), and if they are using a socket and extension, if they're using one hand or two to turn it.

For an oil plug, I'd make my "hand tight" with no more than four or five inches of leverage on the wrench, or using a socket wrench one-handed - one finger on the fastener as a guide, and when it stops turning easily with moderate pressure from two fingers, stop. But I do stuff like that on a regular basis.

For people who don't turn wrenches regularly, and therefore they have no practical experience with "How tight is tight enough" on certain things, they really need to buy and use a good torque wrench on everything until they get used to how much force is needed - and always use it for critical items like lug nuts and head bolts.

The Microtork style "Clicker" wrenches (where you dial in the desired setting in a window) are best, because unlike beam style torque wrenches they're hard to misinterpret.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Well, to me, if it's meant to be 'hand tight' then the nut should be a 'wingnut'...but then of course, some dingledorf will use a screwdriver or vicegrips on it...

Of course!...and there's no difference between this and using a spanner...one guy can put a nut on which will come off that day and another can put the same nut on that you need to 'split' to get off all with the same wrench, so to me 'hand tight is just that, no wrench involved.

Your advice re torque wrenches is very accurate...very little beats experience...or a good torquewrench.

Reply to
Gord Beaman

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