Toyota Previa Van Suddenly Quit

My Previa van suddenly quit without warning. I was just leaving home and the engine suddenly quit about a block down the road. All the instrument panel lights came on, and the the motor would turn over as usual, but just wouldn't start.

It has over 400 K KMs and has been a solid driver up till that point. There were a couple of incidents during the past year or so. When I turn the ignition on, there would be no electricity, i.e. no lights on the instrument panel, and nothing happens when you turn the key. You let it sit for a few minutes and it is all back to normal again. That's about the only there is.

I am wondering if anyone has any idea what might be the problem.

Thank you in advance ...

Reply to
williammaw
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Given the history as you describe it, my money is on a failed Ignition Switch.

Of course, the easy stuff is a blown Fusable Link -- which as a fancy name for a fuse on steroids.

Normally, the fusable links live in a box mounted in the engine bay. They are typically larger, both physically and electrically, than a normal fuse. The trouble with a blown fusable link diagnosis is that it is fatal until replaced, and you report the car does not respond to the key, but later it does without having done anything. A blown fusable link does not fit this profile, but at this point it must be considered.

After checking the electrics in a logical pattern using normally accepted methods, I think you will find the Ignition Switch has failed. The ignition switch may or may not be the same device you plug the key into. Some systems use a linkage between the ignition lockset and the ignition switch. If your car uses this method, the switch is a part that should run somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 bucks.

I have no clue how to replace your ignition switch, so you're on your own.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

I visually checked the fusable links under the hood. They all seem intact. I think Toyotas have a thing called an ignitor. Would that be the equivalent of an ignition switch or a link?

Reply to
williammaw

I visually checked the fusable links under the hood. They all seem intact. I think Toyotas have a thing called an ignitor. Would that be the equivalent of an ignition switch or a link?

I think an igniter is the same as an ignition coil. The ignition coil(s) provide the spark for the plugs.

There are several ways to implement the spark circuit -- a single coil and distributor that fires for all plugs, two coils that are connected to opposing spark plugs and are fired by the computer, and a separate coil for each spark plug that are fired by the computer. I do not know how the spark circuit is implemented in your Previa, bit I'm pretty sure it isn't your problem. If it is your problem there should be an OBD II code for it. Have you bothered to pull codes? There could be an important clue there.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

I don't have a code reader for the Previa. I took a quick look at the ECU under the seat and noticed that there is a diagnostics connector on top. May be I should get one. Wonder how much they cost?

Reply to
williammaw

I don't have a code reader for the Previa. I took a quick look at the ECU under the seat and noticed that there is a diagnostics connector on top. May be I should get one. Wonder how much they cost?

The Previa complies to the OBD II specification, any scan tool will work. The port on the ECU probably (but I don't know for sure) only accepts the Toyota Diagnostic tool.

The OBD II data port should be located along the bottom of the dashboard, generally in the vicinity of where the clutch pedal would be if there was one. It is required by the specification to be the same as in all other cars and trucks built since the '96 model year, and it is supposed to be located along the underside of the dashboard and not hidden. The caveat on "hidden" is that the port can be located behind a cover that clearly states the data port is hiding there. Some Honda products put the data port behind the ashtray, but I do not believe that Toyota ever did that.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

There are several possible causes of the condition. When you turn the ignition key, does the engine turn over but not start? If the engine turns over, does it turn over more quickly than normal? By the way, if the engine turns over, the ignition key is not a likely cause of the problem.

The igniter is not the same as the ignition switch and it is not the same thing as an ignition coil. Basically, the igniter is the piece that tells the coil to discharge. Igniters generally fail permanently and do not quit, then work, then quit again. Once it fails, it doesn't come back and needs replacement.

As far as the diagnostic check connector, the Previa has either OBD I or OBD II, depending on the model year. If it is OBD I, then all you need to pull codes is a paper clip. If it is OBD II, then you need an OBD II code scanner.

So, before anyone sends you checking a bunch of unnecessary stuff, what model and model year is your Previa, what country was it sold in, and do you have a multi-meter?

You should probably start with the basic stuff that an engine needs to run - air, fuel, and a source of ignition at the appropriate time and amount.

If the engine turns over, then check for spark first. If no spark, check the coil resistance. If the coil is good, check the spark plugs.

Reply to
Ray O

It is a 91 sold in US. The engine turns over but it doesn't turn over faster than normal. The car is parked in a side street, so it would be difficult to crawl under the car to check the spark plugs, but if the coil is accessible through the panel under the driver's seat, I could check the coil resistance if you can tell me how. Yes, I have a multi-meter.

I just went to check the fusible links next to the battery - 2x50 Amps, 1X100 Amps and a smaller one - and they all seem to be fine.

Reply to
williammaw

It is a 91 sold in US. The engine turns over but it doesn't turn over faster than normal. The car is parked in a side street, so it would be difficult to crawl under the car to check the spark plugs, but if the coil is accessible through the panel under the driver's seat, I could check the coil resistance if you can tell me how. Yes, I have a multi-meter.

I just went to check the fusible links next to the battery - 2x50 Amps, 1X100 Amps and a smaller one - and they all seem to be fine.

******* A 1991 Previa is OBD I so you check codes by shorting terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic check connector under the driver's seat. Unbend a paper clip and insert the ends of the clip in the terminals, then turn the ignition switch to the on position and count the check engine light flashes. If it flashes steadily, then no codes are stored. If it flashes, pauses, flashes again, then pauses for a longer period and repeats the pattern, count the flashes. The flashes correspond to the codes. For example, 3 quick flashes, then 2 quick flashes, then repeat means the code is 32.

I don't remember where the coil is, but it is probably near the distributor which is mounted on the front of the engine and accessible from underneath. If you are going to crawl underneath, it is just as easy to pull a spark plug and check for spark. If there is spark, the coil is good. If there is no spark, then check the coil. The coil will have a heavy wire going to the center terminal of the distributor. The resistance in the primary circuit (the small connector with 2 wires) whould be .3 to .6 ohms between the 2 terminals on the coil. The resistancein the secondary circuit (positive primary terminal and big terminal coming out of the coil should be 9 to 15 kilo ohms. The reisistance of the spark plug wires from the inside of the distributor cap to the end of the spark plug wire should be less than 25 kilo ohms per cord. Dont try to pull the wire from the distributor as they are permanently attached.

I'm leaving town Friday afternoon for a week so if you have more questions, try to get post before Thursday evening.

good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

I don't have a code reader for the Previa. I took a quick look at the ECU under the seat and noticed that there is a diagnostics connector on top. May be I should get one. Wonder how much they cost?

You told Ray that it's a '91, so it won't be OBD II. He describes the method of straightening a paper clip and inserting it into particular pins of a connector somewhere. This will make the Check Engine light flash a code, if there is one or are any.

Turns out I gave you a bum steer on the Igniter. I thought it was another term for a coil.

You need to get the diagnostic codes before you can move forward.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Well, I just got back from checking out the ECM codes. The engine check light was blinking continuously (over 30 times). I made sure several times that the jumper was connected to terminals TE1 and E1, which is also clearly labeled inside the cap. I also made sure that I wasn't mistaking the blinks from a long series of flashes, which is 7 max it seems.

After I pulled the jumper out of the terminals and tried to start it the engine hopped once and looked like it was almost going to spring back to life, but sadly it was only that one hop.

So is it the ECM shot?

Reply to
williammaw

Well, I just got back from checking out the ECM codes. The engine check light was blinking continuously (over 30 times). I made sure several times that the jumper was connected to terminals TE1 and E1, which is also clearly labeled inside the cap. I also made sure that I wasn't mistaking the blinks from a long series of flashes, which is 7 max it seems.

After I pulled the jumper out of the terminals and tried to start it the engine hopped once and looked like it was almost going to spring back to life, but sadly it was only that one hop.

So is it the ECM shot?

******* No, a continuously blinkgin check engine light means that no codes are stored and the ECM had not detected any faults. Unfortunately, the ECM doesn't check nearly as many sensors and systems and an OBD II system does.

Try depressing the throttle pedal while cranking. If it starts and idles roughly, the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is probably stuck or gummed up. Try cleaning with carb cleaner.

If you can find a rubber hose that leads to the fuel rail for the injectors, put your hand on the hose while cranking. You should feel the fuel flowing through the hose.

Reply to
Ray O

I went again to check it out and this time I found that the check engine light is not coming on at all. I tried starting with the pedal depressed but still won't start.

Reply to
williammaw

I went again to check it out and this time I found that the check engine light is not coming on at all. I tried starting with the pedal depressed but still won't start.

********** No check engine light means that it is unlikely that any codes are stored in the ECM.

Now it is time for the basics - air, fuel, and a source of ignition at the proper time. I'd start with ignition by checking for spark.

Reply to
Ray O

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