1991 Camry Wagon DX 4 Cyl. (Idle Trouble)

Nice to see there's a spot on here for Camry fans/owners! ;)

I've been experiencing a rougher than normal idle just above regular idle speed and just under 2-3 mph. In Neutral idle seems fine, but... if I kick my headlights on in Park or Neutral the same idle sensation occurs. :(

I ratted around some Toyota Forums and this topic had been touched on breifly. Someone had suggested the Alternator might be going out?

Had the alternator tested at Auto Zone and it was at 50 amps/10 volts with head lights on. I'm definitely thinking the alternator is the culprit but was hoping for a 2nd or 3rd opinion. ;)

Wouldn't my battery be dead at this rate?

Car starts fine...just the rough idle at low low rpm, smoothing out upon acccelaration. It's almost as if theres a point in the belt/pulley/unit that causes the vibration and once the rpms surpasses that it smooths right out. IDK. :(

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, MATT

Reply to
Matthew Lee
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I have a 91 and have replaced plugs, wires, cap , rotor maybe 4 times in its life, how about you, age wears on components also. how many miles on it. Its only Ninteen!

Reply to
ransley

anyone>\\\? Thanks! :)

Reply to
Matthew Lee

Matthew Lee wrote: (...)

Matt, have you downloaded OnBoard Diagnostic codes from the computer yet?

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Generally, with electronic fuel injection, this kind of problem is either a dirty idle air control valve, a bad fuel injection (not gauge) temp sensor, or an air mass meter problem. There are other possibilities, but the IAC valve is a good place to start.

Reply to
Leftie

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--Winston

Thanks

for the reply. No not yet, Is there a plug in or do I have to do it manually?

Reply to
Matthew Lee

Thanks for the reply/suggetstion. I'll look into those components. I can def rule out alternator then even at 50/10?

Reply to
Matthew Lee

(...)

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If you are in the U.S., Autozone stores are rumored to be able to read OBD codes for free. Otherwise, you will want to buy an OBD reader. They aren't all that expensive and can be very useful.

If you are feeling adventurous, you can read trouble codes using the 'flashing light' system, without an OBD reader.

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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Also:
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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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--Winston

Thanks

for

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--Winston

Thanks

Winston...I definitely need to run those codes. Could you suggest how to run them manually or is the OBD reader the better option form the get go?

Reply to
Matthew Lee

Matthew Lee wrote: (...)

You could bring the car to Autozone, or buy an OBD reader or read the codes manually. Whatever is easier and more convenient for you.

The OBD reader is a good tool to have. I use mine once every couple of years.

Here's how to read codes manually:

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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--Winston

Got

it!

# Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the Data Link Connector 1 (DLC1). # Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. Read the diagnostic code by the counting the number of flashes of the malfunction indicator lamp.

Is the 'malfunction indicator lamp' the chek engine light???

Reply to
Matthew Lee

Matthew Lee wrote: (...)

I believe so. It was on my old Chevy.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Cool, I didn't have any lucky pulling a code however.

The light just flashed like described on the Auto Zone site. "If no faults are stored, the lamp flashes continuously every 1/2 second. This is sometimes called the Normal or System Clear signal."

I rechecked the output on the alternator at 2000 rpm and got a reading of :

50 amps/10 volts Volts are way off and the dealer suggests a 70 or 80 amp!!!

I'm really leaning towards this as the problem but my battery is charging and no hard starts??!!

Reply to
Matthew Lee

What did you find out when you walked through Autozone's troubleshooting site?

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The path I would choose is: "Sounds", "Idle Is Rough/Erratic".

1) What happened just before this symptom started? 2) When was the last tune up (Plugs, Wires, Distributor rotor and cap...)

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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I bought the car used wih this symptom occuring. Seems to have gotten worse. I'll have to check the maintenance records for plugs/wires info.

Reply to
Matthew Lee

If the idle is actually rough, as opposed to just being dragged down too low, then it isn't the alternator. And if the alternator does add a lot of drag at idle, you'll almost certainly have belt squeal with it.

Reply to
Leftie

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