Vanagon TSB's

Can't answer your question directly, but when my '87 GTi (CIS-e) had problems with high idle, particularly with the A/C on, it was the idle position switch on the throttle body. Finding a replacement switch at the junkyard was difficult, as most of the ones I found were broken. Leads me to believe this is a common failure. If you slowly open and close the throttle (with your fingers, on the throttle body, not with the foot on the gas pedal) you will hear the clicking of the idle switch, if you don't it is probably bad.

If it turns out to be the switch, the dealer wants over $100 for a replacement set of switches. The switch comes with the wide open throttle switch as well, and there are two varieties of them. I use the type with a 3-terminal connector with one common wire and one wire each from the idle and WOT switch. The other type uses a 2-terminal connector and the two switches are wired in parallel (the ECU can easily "guess" which switch is activated). If you go to the junk yard, you can pick up either variety, the actual switches are identical for the two types. A little handy work with a soldering iron and some shrink tubing, and you have the replacement switch wired into your wiring harness (unless you happen to find the right type and just replace both switches).

All this relates to my '87 GTi and could be completely irrelevant for your Vanag>

Did you use an ohm meter to check the idle switches? Resistance should be under 1.5 ohms.

Well I finally had time to look at this again. Where are the idle switches located on a vanagon, I could not seem to find them just a straight up cable throttle and Bently wasn't a help. I know where they are on my golf? The only variable I can control here is when I unplug the connector to the Idle stabilizer valve the idle returns to normal. So is it the valve or the signal to it; and what's controlling that? What and where should I be testing?

Thanks Tristen

Right on the trottle body. See bently, Page 24.33, 24.34, 24.35 and more. They used two versions. Newer were one combo, older had 2 seperate switches.

JoBo

Hey GANG...

I have an '87 Westfalia with exactly the same problem. sometimes fine at startup..... but a few mins after, the idle just wants to stay at 2000rpm. Even when you step on it in neutral it will return to 1000rpm but within seconds it will climb back up to 2000 rpm. Sometimes after shutting off the engine and starting it goes away.... but only SOMETIMES.

I've cleaned the idle stabilizer many times. but problem keeps on returning randomly... but now more frequent.

I had it checked out by a VW shop and they told me that it's the IDLE stabilizer unit (which is around $450 CAD.)

I thought I would look around the net to see if it could be something else before I spend the cash... I will check the idle switches....

Any other suggestions ?

ERFman '87 Westfalia

Hey GANG...

I have an '87 Westfalia with exactly the same problem. sometimes fine at startup..... but a few mins after, the idle just wants to stay at 2000rpm. Even when you step on it in neutral it will return to 1000rpm but within seconds it will climb back up to 2000 rpm. Sometimes after shutting off the engine and starting it goes away.... but only SOMETIMES.

I've cleaned the idle stabilizer many times. but problem keeps on returning randomly... but now more frequent.

I had it checked out by a VW shop and they told me that it's the IDLE stabilizer unit (which is around $450 CAD.)

I thought I would look around the net to see if it could be something else before I spend the cash... I will check the idle switches....

Any other suggestions ?

ERFman '87 Westfalia

Hey Tristen.....

I share you exact problem.but I might have a solution

Idle sits at 2000rmp. When you unplug the stabilizer valve.. rpm goes down; therefore it must be the signal to the valve. At this point I couldn't do anything more, so I took it to a VW shop and they tested it all. Their feedback = faulty idle stabilizer unit ($450 CAD)...not the valve.

The Idle stabilizer unit (located behind the right tail light) is a little black box full of electronic stuff. Grab the box and slide it UP out of its holder.

I cracked it open and noticed 1 resistor on the board was quite "BROWN". (visibly from overheating). it's a 56 ohm resitor (56R +-10%), 2 or 5 watt power rating. From calling around most electronic stores (judging from its size--15mm), they think it's probably a 2 watt. You can replace it with a higher power rating but the bigger the power rating, the bigger the resistor. and there isn't much space inside that LITTLE BLACK box.

I am hoping replacing the resistor is the reason why the idle goes up. THe resistor also heats up and at a certain point it probably just stops working.

I can't seem to find a 2 watt resistor anywhere close to home but I managed to find a 5 watter (2 for $2.95). It seems a good alternative to buying a whole new UNIT which is around $450 CAD at the dealer.

I will replace it this weekend and come back with my feedback.

Jiri '87 westfalia

Hey Tristen.....

I share you exact problem.but I might have a solution

Idle sits at 2000rmp. When you unplug the stabilizer valve.. rpm goes down; therefore it must be the signal to the valve. At this point I couldn't do anything more, so I took it to a VW shop and they tested it all. Their feedback = faulty idle stabilizer unit ($450 CAD)...not the valve.

The Idle stabilizer unit (located behind the right tail light) is a little black box full of electronic stuff. Grab the box and slide it UP out of its holder.

I cracked it open and noticed 1 resistor on the board was quite "BROWN". (visibly from overheating). it's a 56 ohm resitor (56R +-10%), 2 or 5 watt power rating. From calling around most electronic stores (judging from its size--15mm), they think it's probably a 2 watt. You can replace it with a higher power rating but the bigger the power rating, the bigger the resistor. and there isn't much space inside that LITTLE BLACK box.

I am hoping replacing the resistor is the reason why the idle goes up. THe resistor also heats up and at a certain point it probably just stops working.

I can't seem to find a 2 watt resistor anywhere close to home but I managed to find a 5 watter (2 for $2.95). It seems a good alternative to buying a whole new UNIT which is around $450 CAD at the dealer.

I will replace it this weekend and come back with my feedback.

Jiri '87 westfalia

Hey Tristen....

Good News and Bad news...

I replaced the MENTIONED RESISTOR... with no effect... probably because something else in the STABILIZER CONTROL unit was making it warm....meaning there was another part that was wonky....

but I did managed to get a used UNIT for ($100 CAD)...No way in hell I was going to give the dealer ship $489 CAD. and the problem went away. Now the van purs like a kitten !!!!!!!!!

The only way to find out would be to measure every component on the circuit board inside the unit while in use.... not much fun and very time consuming.

PROBLEM FIXED !!!!

P.S. If you are going to buy a used one.. make sure that you take it for a nice test drive. The problem might not show up until all the circuits have warmed up.

P.S.(2) Not sure why my msgs always get posted twice.