87 Camry Fuel Filter Replacement

Is anyone familiar with this procedure?

I am not very familiar with cars, but I am told this is like a 10 min job I can do myself. I can see the fuel filter under the hood and I can see the to lines running to it, but I was reading something about depresurizing...or something like that. I am not sure if that is necessary on this car and if so, how to even do it.

I posted a few days ago and received some help...turns out the ignition coil was ok (so I was told) and that it is either the fuel filter or pump. The filter is the easy place to start thought.

Any help is appreciated.

Reply to
Curniac
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Is it fuel injected (pressurized fuel line) or carb....If you hit your local library, a Chilton or Haynes manuel is probably available that will tell you how to deal with "depressurizing" your system if it is injected.

I have an 87 Corolla with carb and mechanical fuel pump and honestly replacing the fuel pump is easier on this car than the filter, because the pump is easy to reach, while the filter is a bit of a fuss to get at....

Reply to
timbirr

On most Toyotas, esp ones from the 80's, 'depressurizing' the system involves removing the gas cap.

Reply to
Hachiroku

I heard that getting the lines off is a pain and that it is very easy to strip or damage. Any suggestions? Sorry if these questions are stupid, but as I said I am a novice at cars. Ask me anything you want about computers or electronics, but cars...I just don't have any knowledge of.

Reply to
Curniac

Yeah, it can be a bit confusing, because Toy did a mish-mash of injector and carb cars through that mid-late 80's era, but weren't the Camry's pretty much fuel-injected by 86....

Reply to
timbirr

Honestly, if you have half a brain, and it sounds like you have much more than that, the easiest and most fool-proof way for you to approach this is to get the Chilton's from your local library.

They have diagrams and step-by-step instructions, which are quite easy to follow.

Reply to
timbirr

Reply to
M. Hamill

If you do have fuel injection, my standard advice is to use Kroil as a penetrating lubricant and let it soak in for some time before attempting to remove the fuel lines, and also use a "crow foot" flare wrench that fits on the extension for a ratchet handle to remove the flare nut fitting (the nut with a fuel line running through it so a closed box end wrench cannot be used. Standard flare wrenches seem to flex somewhat in use such that it is not uncommon for the fuel line to be damaged during removal attempts and then you need to buy the whole fuel line back to the next connection. I bought an SK crow foot wrench from toolsource.com and that fitting came off very easily, whereas others have tried removal and just given up from the difficulty once the nut was marred. 17mm I think.

Reply to
Daniel

Have yet to hear anyone saying replacing the fuel filter on their injected vehicle solved the problem for them. I do thiink it is a good idea to change them for preventative maintenance purposes at 120,000 miles, but the capacity is fairly large and the fuel is under much higher pressure than carbureted vehicles, so unless you used gasoline with lots of debris in it (possibly filling your car while the tanker was filling the storage tanks), chances are your problem is elsewhere. Toyota calls the fuel filter a "lifetime" part.

Reply to
Daniel

Actually, Daniel, I don't know what the original "problem" is here, but the fact that the fuel filter is accountable for any significant problem that appeared suddenly (if indeed this did), is as you say, unlikely.

It would help if the trouble were detailed.....

Reply to
timbirr

On the '86, the FF is located on the driver's side fender, underneath the um...brake lines, I think (I have'nt looked for a few months...I've been putting it off since it doesn't look like fun. BUT, it does look easier than my '85 Celica...same filter, UNDER the intake runners!!!!)

At any rate, you'll nee a 12mm and I believe a 14mm wrench. Boxed or Crescent wrenches will be good for this because of where it's mounted.

LOOSEN THE FITTINGS FIRST!!!. Like an idiot, I removed the bracket first on my Celica, then had to find the mounting holes again, then loosen the fitting, then remove the bracket....ARRRRGHHHH! Just crack them loose until they rotate freely, THEN remove the mounting bracket and finish removing the fittings. Look at how the brass crush washer gaskets are mounted!!!! Remove the filter, replace the banjo bolts with the crush washers, tighten without crushing the washers and mount to the fender, then tighten the fittings tight; start the car and look for leaks. Sounds easy, but wait till you see where the filter is!

Good luck...report back; I'll be doing my Mom's Thursday or Friday!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

The car was running fine with no indication of any problem. Then while driving one day, the car dies will driving. Attempts to start the car show luck sometimes. It will start run for 30 secs and putt, then die. Trying to start after that doesn't immediately work, but after a couple of minutes you can get it started again. Sometimes it runs for a few mintues. When on and running, it sounds fine. No smoke coming out the back. No strange smells. From what I am told it sounds like a fuel problem and the first thing to easily check is the fuel filter, then the pump and then move from there.

I am open for any other suggestions I can try to diagnose myself though.

Reply to
Curniac

SOLUTION: Well after checking for spark and replacing the fuel filter, it appears the problem was the fuel pump.

Thanks for everyones help.

Reply to
Curniac

it appears the problem was the fuel pump ~~~~~~~~~ Thanks for reporting back. Curious - did you make a habit of running the tank close to empty? My Owner manual states you should keep the tank above 1/4 full. My understanding is the the fuel in the tank cools and lubricates the pump, so running near empty causes it to run hotter and shorten the life. Just a suggestion. Ordinarily, fuel pumps tend to last a long, long time.

Reply to
Daniel

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