Re: transmission problems.
------------- Previous post - Art, has a good point re: just a bad sensor - very likely.
------------- Re: Where to find a mechanic to work on your transmission.
------------- Shows your instincts are working correctly to detect so many low quality mechanics. Personally, I would rather buy the tools and do the work myself. Re: Rebuild vs. Replace Would always favor replace. Rebuilt transmissions are almost never as good as the original factory unit, whereas essentially that's what you're getting with a second hand replacement from a wrecking yard. Get one that's never been opened up and worked on, and you're likely to have better results. Back to the question of mechanics. Look for an independent mechanic that specializes in Toyota and insist they use only genuine factory parts. There are many independent mechanics that specialize in Toyota. Look at the shop. Is it clean and well organized, or disorganized and littered with debris? Once had a German independent mechanic rebuild a Volkswagen engine for me. The shop was spotless. He did a fantastic job. One of the few positive experiences with a mechanic.
1994 Toyota Camry LE transmission. That's what I have. Recently have been marveling at the smoothness of the shifting performance (128,000 miles). It operates beautifully. One of the things I've been trying really hard to avoid, (since I like to keep cars a long, long time) is having to replace the transmission because they are so expensive. One of the best things you can do to make the transmission last - (want to guess? similar to making the engine last) - yep. "change the oil." The automatic transmission has friction material that engages with hydraulic pressure and is subject to wear over time, contaminating the fluid. The fluid also has to lubricate the planetary gears that carry the cars forward motion, so it is a great idea to periodically check the condition and level of the fluid. Compare your fluid to new out of the bottle. It is hard to imagine what a mechanic could have done on a test drive to disable shifting. (I'm basically honest so there may be some tricks I haven't thought of) First guess, since he probably didn't have access to any internal parts, is a simple disconnection of a cable or electrical connection - easily remedied. Back to the fluid. Much of the magic of an automatic transmission is in the torque converter that allows the car to idle in Drive and move smoothly from a stop. Even when the fluid is drained, some remains in the torque converter. You can get more out by draining hot, and leaving the drain plug open over night (making sure no one else drives the car). All you really need to pull the drain plug is a 10 mm Allen head socket and a fresh gasket. Plus a 1/2" ratchet handle or breaker bar, and adapter down to the 3/8" socket, because the plug can be tight, but don't over tighten when replacing, just gently snug it down, then a bit more, then a bit more. The idea is to slightly compress the aluminum gasket for a positive seal. You also need to be careful about re filling fluid. For the final topping up, you need to drive at least ten miles, and add slowly up to the full hot mark. A lot of mechanics that don't take the time to properly fill the automatic transmission get the final level wrong. You'll need to drain and re fill several times to clean the fluid. If it has been neglected, you could also remove the transmission pan and clean the filter screen. That could solve your problem right there. Your transmission is electronically controlled by the car's computer using shift solenoids. A shift solenoid is just a valve that is controlled by an electrically activated magnet. The clearances inside the valve body are extremely precise. Even a tiny bit of contaminant - a speck of dirt - can cause problems, so if you pull the pan, you need to be scrupulously clean. Remember the part about finding a mechanic with a clean shop? When you clean the inside of the transmission pan, you don't dry it with a rag, you need to clean it with solvent and then let the solvent evaporate. Actually this is no big deal. The gasket is only a few dollars, and you can find solvent in a spray can for a few dollars. (I like Berryman Chemtool) Then you just carefully loosen and evenly tighten (not over tighten) a bunch of small bolts around the perimeter. Here's a place where you might do a better job than a mechanic. You can go slowly, tightening just a little bit at a time, in a cross pattern, over and over again, until they're snugged down. There's a Haynes manual that gives more detail. Final torque is in inch pounds so they don't need to be very tight. Prior mechanics had stripped the threads on two of my transmission pan bolts by over tightening before I got to it. If the friction material inside your transmission is not worn out from neglect or abuse, and you don't see large bits of metal clinging to the permanent magnets inside the bottom of the pan, your problem is probably with the valve body sticking from contaminated old fluid, or one of the shift solenoids sticking, or a bad electrical connection to one of the solenoids. (there are only three total) If you take the car to a shop, your goal is to find an honest mechanic. Amazingly, I found one of these guys at my corner Shell station. An Indian man. Very nice. Always remembered my name. Always a smiling greeting. Always worked quickly and efficiently at reasonable prices, and if only a minor repair was needed he would say so. I once thought the timing chain on my truck was rattling and needed replacement. He said no, it is just the heat shield over the exhaust. I once thought the air pump on the truck was bad. He said no. It is just a loose belt. These guys are rare, but apparently you can find them occasionally. There are a gazillion cars in Southern California, and thousands of mechanics. If you are patient, you should be able to find one you can meet your needs.