Hi. After pulling a nice-looking fender from a junkyard, I noticed a small rusty patch in the lower corner. I'm not going to go the whole nine yards with cutting and welding, but I do plan on using a rust neutralizer before applying fiberglass. The thing is, I don't know *WHICH* rust neutralizer to use. Right now, I've got a spray can of Loctite "Extend" and a bottle of Klean-Strip "Rust Converter." Has anyone had any experiences with either? Which is better? Or should I try to acquire something else?
Geoff muttered darkly in news: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com:
They're all basically the same stuff, are they not? Phosphoric acid. Naval Jelly is another.
Sand off as much of the rust as you can, apply the rust converter and wait
20 minutes. Wipe it off and sand some more. If the spots remain black, you're fine. If they come up dusty orange again, sand some more and apply more rust converter.
Once you've got most of it, prime with ZINC ANTI-RUST primer, DO NOT use the standard grey/red stuff. You can get zinc-rich primer in normal and high-build formulations. That is the right stuff to use. If you fail to use zinc primer, the rust WILL come back fast.
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TeGGeR®
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I dunno. The "Extend" says it contains acetone, dimethyl ether and
2-butoxyethanol. The "Rust Converter" contains barium sulfate, glycol ether, and acrylic copolymer. I'm not good enough with chemistry to make any inferences from this info.
Thanks for the tips. I'm confused, though, because the can for Extend says "Zinc primers and latex topcoats are NOT recommended as bleed through may occur." Should I disregard this, or am I holding a can of something weird and unusual and non-standard?
Naval Jelly works well to remove the rust that is there. Is the rust on the inner or outer surface of the fender? Either way, do your work, (I would recommend patching with metal. I did the fiberglas route and need to do the job again...2 years later!) Then after the thing is on, painted, and the paint is cured, spray the inner surface with a liberal application of hydraulic oil. Matter of fact, spray the inner surfaces of the entire car w/hadraulic oil! Then you won't have to do a lot of these repairs again. (Warning: the EPA frowns on this practice....)
Ya think?!! When I did ther Tercel wagon, I used a 'self-etching' primer, sanded it and then went over again with regular primer. Two years later I'm looking at rust in the same spots!
Where the heck were you two years ago!?!
At least when I do the Corolla, I'll know better! ;)
HachiRoku muttered darkly in news: snipped-for-privacy@ae86.GTS:
The problem is the rust happens from the INSIDE. That's why so many rust repairs bubble back up in a few years. You MUST kill the rust and then provide an anode for any straggler molecules.
You need zinc. Nothing else will do.
Too bad. Good thing we have Krown and Rust Check up here in Canada. That stuff is absolutely the very best there is for preventing rust on the inside surfaces of your car.
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HachiRoku muttered darkly in news: snipped-for-privacy@ae86.GTS:
Right here. Where were YOU?
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On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 03:26:03 GMT, HachiRoku wrote:
?I *couldn't* believe my eyes when I saw Tegger® wrote: ? ?> HachiRoku muttered darkly in ?> news: snipped-for-privacy@ae86.GTS: ?> ?>> I *couldn't* believe my eyes when I saw Geoff wrote: ?>> ?>>> Hi. After pulling a nice-looking fender from a junkyard, I noticed a ?>>> small rusty patch in the lower corner. I'm not going to go the whole ?>>> nine yards with cutting and welding, but I do plan on using a rust ?>>> neutralizer before applying fiberglass. The thing is, I don't know ?>>> *WHICH* rust neutralizer to use. Right now, I've got a spray can of ?>>> Loctite "Extend" and a bottle of Klean-Strip "Rust Converter." Has ?>>> anyone had any experiences with either? Which is better? Or should ?>>> I try to acquire something else? ?>>> ?>>> Thanks. ?>>> ?>>> --Geoff ?>> ?>> Naval Jelly works well to remove the rust that is there. Is the rust ?>> on the inner or outer surface of the fender? Either way, do your work, ?>> (I would recommend patching with metal. I did the fiberglas route and ?>> need to do the job again...2 years later!) Then after the thing is on, ?>> painted, and the paint is cured, spray the inner surface with a ?>> liberal application of hydraulic oil. ?> ?> ?> ?> ?> The problem is the rust happens from the INSIDE. That's why so many rust ?> repairs bubble back up in a few years. You MUST kill the rust and then ?> provide an anode for any straggler molecules. ?> ?> You need zinc. Nothing else will do. ?> ?> ?> ?>> Matter of fact, spray the inner ?>> surfaces of the entire car w/hadraulic oil! Then you won't have to do ?>> a lot of these repairs again. (Warning: the EPA frowns on this ?>> practice....) ?> ?> ?> ?> Too bad. Good thing we have Krown and Rust Check up here in Canada. That ?> stuff is absolutely the very best there is for preventing rust on the ?> inside surfaces of your car. ? ? ?I'll be right up! Canadian Tire?
HachiRoku muttered darkly in news: snipped-for-privacy@ae86.GTS:
You can buy spray cans for $8 for touch up at Crappy Tire. The main application is done by appointment at any Krown or Rust Check franchise location.
It's messy and drippy. You need to leave your car on the street for a day or so to let the dripping stop. You also need to get it done every year, at about $110 Cdn. per year.
You also need to be aggressive in seeking out and touching up all stone chips pretty much as soon as they happen, which means going around the car at least once a week. Krown/RC cannot protect where it cannot be applied, so body exterior surfaces, windshield surrounds, A-pillars, roof edge moldings, door ledge moldings, roof undersides and the like must be done by you, sometimes with some disassembly needed.
Winter is very bad. It is very difficult and often too wet and cold to touch up stone chips, so more involved efforts are required in the spring, or the instant you get a warm, dry day.
Stone chips left more than a day in any season's wet weather will have developed a microsocopic film of rust within hours of the chip, which will thicken with succeeding weeks. Simply applying touchup paint will fail, as rust will bubble up again in a few months. This is where Naval Jelly and/or high-build primer come in.
It's also helpful to have a Dremel with a drum sanding bit and small flap wheel, and to use a paintbrush rather than spray paint. If caught early, the affected area is often very tiny, and can be fixed without the disruptive size of spray-painted repairs.
Toyota's "pen" touch up tool is awful. Great for California-style stone chips, useless for up here. I pull out the nib and work a paintbrush in the hole to get paint flowing so I can use the brush to touch up.
The repairs will never be invisible, so you can forget the "blending in" thing. All you want to do is stop the rusting and keep in from happening again in the same spot.
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TeGGeR®
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I don't claim to be expert as some in harsher climates, but here's my simple method that worked on a small bit of rust in a corner near the rear bumper, under a spot of lifting paint, based on the method in the back of the Haynes repair manual. Scrape down to bare shiny metal. If you're rusted all the way through, I suppose you'd have to fill the hole or leave it, but mine was surface rust and I was able to remove all of it. Apply Rustoleum rusty metal primer, allow to dry. Repeat. Apply factory touch up paint. Allow to dry (24 hrs.) Repeat two more times.
Sometimes, usenet is a 'luxury', depending on where I am (charge by the minute, poor server coverage, etc). I have been off and on since 1990, but mostly off since 1997. Back again with a vengance!
BTW, Crappy Tire, huh? Where do you live? (If yuou care to disclose!) I used to visit Ontario (metro Toronto) quite often, also Montreal/Trois Rivieres.
Try POR 15 ( Paint Over Rust) if the spots are on the inside just use POR 15 by itself, for exterior there is no a special primer that will stick to it. It dries to a very hard shinny black. Car resorers have been using it for years on underbody. East Wood company sells it as well as your better parts stores.
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