How I Solved My Camry's Stalling Problem

The Problem: About a year ago, my '96 Camry (141,000 miles) would stall - only when warm, only when approaching a stop light or stop sign, and only after being driven at least 7 miles. RPMs would fluctuate between 250 and 750 RPM; throwing the transmission into Neutral and tapping the gas pedal would help to avoid a stall. If it did stall, cranking the car could usually revive the engine.

In the past, this only happened about once a month. Didn't bother me that much. Lately, though, it had begun to stall on any trip longer than 7 miles. My commute to work is only 3 miles; so, I took my time trying to figure it out.

The Solution: My EGR Vacuum Modulator needed replacing.

What I Had Tried Before: o replacing intake air hose (it was cracked and needed replacing anyway; $90 at the dealership) o replaced stuck PCV valve (I forget how much) o changed spark plugs (they were clean; no sign of soot); done myself o changed leaking distributor O-ring (mechanic did this; about $90 for the labor) o tried Tri-Flow Teflon in IAC valve; done myself o cleaned throttle plate with throttle plate cleaner and a toothbrush; done myself o disassembled and cleaned throttle body (with throttle plate cleaner and a can of compressed air); done myself o disassembled and cleaned idle air control valve (and stripped a Pozidrive screw; thank goodness for the Dremel screw extraction method!); done myself o changed transmission fluid (thinking it was a stuck shift solenoid); done myself o changed coolant sensor ($12 at Autozone); done myself. (Haynes said to measure the voltage across it; should be 5V. I measured 10V, so thought this was bad. Guess I was wrong. o steam-cleaned the inside of the engine by squirting distilled water into the intake manifold while the engine was running. o removed and cleaned EGR valve; done myself (had to remove the nut at the engine; blowtorch method loosened the valve from the pipe)

What Worked: Disconnected my EGR valve, and placed a 3-inch nail in the vacuum line. Car didn't stall anymore, but I didn't want to risk the higher engine temperature, and I wasn't too comfortable with the knowledge I'd fail a smog check. Worked when I had absolutely no choice though (stalling like crazy on a city street; pulled over, put the nail in, no problem).

Now that I knew it was the EGR system, I had to narrow it down to: EGR valve, EGR modulator, vacuum switching valve, or some leaking vacuum line.

I took out the EGR valve, and cleaned it (twice) with throttle plate cleaner. It didn't hold vacuum very well (vacuum pump had it losing pressure slowly), but at least it would spring back to the CLOSED position fairly quickly.

Took a chance: borrowed the EGR modulator from my wife's '99 Camry (some research showed the parts are interchangeable), then drove around with that in my '96 Camry. 30 mile trip; no stall.

Notes: My mechanic said they would charge $85 just to LOOK at the problem. That got me motivated to disassemble the throttle body and IAC valve (which the mechanic said was a usual problem with these Camrys). Ordinarily I wouldn't do that.

Posting here, in the hope this will be of use to someone.

Michael

-- Wireless network setup, computer upgrades and repair.

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"You see, then, that it is by his actions that a person is put right with God, and not by his faith alone." James 2:24

Reply to
mrdarrett
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Thanks for the post & info. Should be of great value to someone experiencing similiar probs. dc

Reply to
doncee

I hear alot of EGR problems, is this something you have to replace every 100k-150k?? miles? is there anything you can do to prevent premature failure of EGRs?

Reply to
EdV

Good question. From what I've read, Toyota seems to design parts (like radiators) to last only 10 years or so, on the philosophy that, if it breaks after 10 years, you can't really complain. And compared to some American cars, I guess they're right...

It seems that the EGR valve might need cleaning every 100k miles or so (especially considering its job: piping dirty exhaust back into the intake manifold), but it's really difficult to remove - I had to remove it from the engine block, and to get there, you have to remove the air hose and throttle body (or at least I did).

I've also heard that if you fail a smog check, the EGR valve is a prime suspect.

One hint I had about the EGR modulator was a small spot of black stuff on the inside filter of the EGR modulator. I found a thread somewhere on the web that had a picture of a really gray EGR modulator filter - and someone replied that the EGR modulator had ruptured, piping exhaust through the filter (which shouldn't happen) - and to replace the part.

I'm tempted to just go to the local junkyard to find a replacement EGR modulator - guy quoted me $10. Pretty easy to install, once you've swapped it out a few times. ;-)

Otherwise, I'd go to

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The part number is

25870-74090. It's about $44 there, but need to order $100 worth of parts to get the free shipping. Hmm...

Regards,

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

I had problems with my 1990 Camry having no power at higher rpm and heating up when doing 100km/h. I tried to replace the EGR valve as well as the modulator to no avail. Another symptom was that it was blowing off the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. I'm thinking that the catalytic convertor is plugged and will be replacing it tomorrow. Let you know how it goes.

Reply to
James Spencer

=== Here's a link to a million mile Toyota. Tends to refute the idea that parts are designed for limited life.

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Reply to
Daniel

I realized I misspoke. I didn't mean to imply that Toyota designed

*all* parts to last only 10 years. Just some parts. Radiators in particular... (I'm still a little bitter about my radiator busting on me 2 years ago... but I'll get over it... ;-)

I read a page somewhere discussing radiator life and design (probably comparing the plastic and aluminum radiators) but I can't find the link at the moment...

On the plus side, I'm absolutely amazed at how well the paint job on my '96 Camry is holding up. Still looks new. Even where there are some scratches where I banged the car accidentally with skis years ago, there is no rust growth. Compare that with my dad's '86 Ford Ranger - the entire paint job was peeling off after 8 years, and the body was rusting.

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

Dear oh dear still playing around with EGR ??

Reply to
videokid400

All Done!

Got an EGR modulator from the junkyard yesterday - US $11, with tax. (Imagine that - they tax used parts too, here in California...)

Drove for 15 miles, no stall. That was yesterday. Drive 46 miles today for a work-related doctor's appointment. No stall. Going there, I took a side-road, with lots of stops. On the way back, I took the freeway, to make sure the engine didn't explode on me at highway speeds. No explosion. [haha]

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and help

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

That's a pretty good endorsement of the SR5. I hope the Camry with its sedan suspension is just as durable.

Lately, I've noticed a slight pull to the left (we drive on the left side of the road in Oz,..a left-over from pomme influence) lately. Tyre pressures are monitored regularly. I'll have to investigate (ohh my aching back)

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

== Wasn't aware this type of problem was common.

My understanding was always that EGR valves are quite trouble free apart from the propensity to become clogged or jammed with carbon.

For a long time I used RedLine complete fuel system cleaner which claims to also clean emission control components. I know when I resealed the oil pan and removed the center exhaust pipe, looking up into the exhaust manifold it looked very clean.

Recently switched to Lucas fuel treatment which also claims to clean carbon.

I suspect there are certain driving conditions which may contribute to carbon accumulation more than others and I also suspect this can shorten the life and responsiveness of oxygen sensors by coating the ceramic cone in the exhaust stream which responds to the presence of oxygen.

The other failure mode for EGR valves would be leakage in the diaphragm or associated vacuum lines.

Reply to
Daniel

=== I use Shell gasoline. Used to be Chevron. I use the fuel system treatment (RedLine previously, now Lucas) continuously. The bottles are marked to add a few ounces per fillup. Not sure about slow driving on longer trips with engine fully warmed. My guess is carbon accumulation would be higher on an engine during warm up and also while idling.

Reply to
Daniel

"Used to be" Chevron? There's a story here, I can tell...

Reply to
mrdarrett

Update in case anyone cares. I got my catalytic convertor cleaned out and a resonator installed. It ended up that I also needed a new muffler so that's been done as well. All engine problems solved. No more power problems and no more engine overheating. Amazing what a plugged converter can do to a vehicle.

Reply to
Tom Sprung

Were you posting under James Spencer's name earlier? I recall Mr. Spencer mentioned he planned to change his cat. converter too.

Great, that you had the overheating problem fixed! Yes we care! Thanks for the information.

How did you know you needed a new muffler installed?

To me, my engine is a little *too* quiet. Sometimes, if I start the engine then get distracted, I have to look at the tachometer to know the engine's running, and not accidentally strip the gears by "starting" while running. Guess I shouldn't complain... ;-)

Regards,

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

How do you "clean out a cat canverter" very interesting. If what you mean is some idiot knocked the guts out of it , also very dangerous. dave

Reply to
videokid400

Years later and you may have helped me !

Reply to
brian.ernst44

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