Toyota Dealership versus Local Midas Shop for repair

========================== I'd get a second opinion, but not from Midas. Check Google for click and clack the tappet brothers, their site has local mechanics with recommendations from people that have used them. A relative recently tried this in So. Calif. and was very pleased with the savings and service.

Hows your milage, oxygen sensors go or no go, they dont about to go. Tie rods, hows your steering? Front pipe, is it leaking, if not leave it. How old are struts, bushings are a 15$ job. How are the brakes, so far it looks like the dealer just needs a job. But maybe your car need alot of maintenance, Dealers are always overpriced, Midas is ok, shop for prices.

How much did the dealership quote you versus Midas?

Midas used to be a good muffler shop. Dont know about their mechanical credibility.

If I need to get something done I can't or won't do myself, I tend to go to a good independent shop. I try to find someone I can trust, both ethically and professionally, and use them when I need them..

Dealerships often suck. Franchise garages sometimes do too.

Oxygen sensors, contrary to another poster, are not a go/no go situation. They can get sluggish, begin to operate near the ends of their range or deviate out of range. You don't have to use Toyota parts, but some of the aftermarket units are not of good quality. Some are. If your car is running okay, no error codes are noted, mileage is good, maybe you dont need the OS.

On the tie rods, have them checked out. They are either worn or they aren't. You don't change them like a shirt just because you have owned them so long, or they are a little grey.

Rear struts and bushings...could be. Depends on mileage, handling, etc.

Front pads and rotors...Pads if you need them, rotors if they are worn or warped beyond use. They aren't hard to check.

I would not let Midas near my car. In my experience, Midas is at least as expensive as a dealer (especially after they get the car on the lift), unless they are using non-OEM parts, in which case you need to exercise some caution.

For struts, I might consider someone other than a dealer, but probably not Midas.

im a little curious of how they know that the o2 sensor is about to go?

"PeonHonda" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@no-mx.forums.yourdomain.com.au...

Sometimes the engine check light (with corresponding O2 code) will illuminate intermittently.

My dealer quoted me $746 for rear struts and another $130 for rear sway-bar bushings. This is for a 2000 Camry with 130K.

That seems too high, so I am going to get a quote from an independent shop.

Might be wise. NAPA Online lists rear struts for that car for $61 each.

Find a GOOD independent mechanic. There are many of them out there who are as good as, and possibly better than, the dealership mechs. They have a reputation to maintain, but dont have to charge an arm and a leg to support all the dealership activities.

If dealerships delivered what they charge for, it might be a different story, but -often as not - they may be overpriced and less than satisfactory.

PeonHonda wrote:

================== This should probably have been asked as a separate question, but here's my answer. Since I've got the '94 with OBD1, yours may differ. The oxygen sensor is essentially made of zirconia. This is the material similar to a diamond in hardness - like those imitation diamonds marketed as cubic zirconia. The oxygen sensor contains a metal shell with vents to the atmosphere. When the O2 sensor gets really hot in the exhaust stream, the presence of oxygen creates a tiny electrical voltage which triggers the electronic engine computer to alter the fuel injector pulse width controlling the amount of fuel injected. So in normal operation the electrical signal is fluctuating back and forth. According to my service manual, with voltmeter leads connected to the underhood diagnostic port, if the needle fluctuates more than 8 times in 10 seconds the O2 sensor is good. Newer O2 sensors have an added heater, to bring the unit up to operating temperature more quickly to reduce emissions which are higher when the engine is cold and the O2 heater filament can fail similar to a filament burning out in a standard incandescent light bulb. People say oxygen sensors "get lazy" over time, and that's why they need to be replaced. This means they respond more slowly to changes in ambient oxygen levels, but the material is like a ceramic, with very small pores through which oxygen can be transmitted. My own personal theory is that carbon accumulation causes the "laziness." Also burning oil, sulfur compounds I believe, plus I know for sure the acetic acid released during silicone sealer curing will destroy an O2 sensor. The Red Line complete fuel system cleaner I use in every tankful (just a small amount) claims to survive the combustion process and safely clean emission control components. I keep wondering if the O2 sensor should be changed just based on mileage as I approach 150,000 miles, but it still tests just fine, and the last smog test showed percentage of oxygen at 25 mph as 0.0.

"If it isn't broken,......"

Seriously, some critical items are worth routine maintenance, like cam drive belts, etc.

If a person has plenty of money and wants his ride to give him few surprises, then he can go through all the hypothetical recommended maintenance.

If he is not quite that flush, and don't need the same level of reassurance, maybe he would want to wait on the less critical items.