07 4Runner limited and a Tralier?

I have an 07 4Runner Limited with the factory installed trailer option. The manual states (V6) that any trailer over 1000# should have electric brakes. Most of the trailers I have been looking at are capable of 3000# GW with a base trailer weight of 600# Net - that means I can only put about 400# in it before I need electric brakes. Not one of the trailers I've looked at comes with electric brakes - what's up with that?

Reply to
Leythos
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Almost all small trailers can be built with electric brakes, but they are not built that way by default for floor models at trailer sales dealers - most people don't want them.

They might have a small tow vehicle and need the brakes, they might be legally required in your state if you're over the 1000#-1500#-2000# limit, but the buyers don't want them - there's a big difference. Machismo is a hard thing to overcome, and these people have a Big Powerful Car or a Big Macho Truck that can easily stop a small trailer...

(Yeah. Right. Suuuuuure you do...)

And if they don't want brakes and have to pay for them because that's the way the trailer was built, they go elsewhere. So that's why brakes don't get ordered on spec, except on larger travel and utility trailers where there's no choice.

You have to order the trailer to be built for you with electric brakes as an option, or buy a trailer where they can be easily added to and have the dealer add them. For medium trailers it is fairly easy to add brakes later because they already have the backing-plate flanges on the axles, and you just change the hubs to hubs with rotors. But really small trailers don't have the mounting flanges on the axles unless ordered that way.

If you plan to use the trailer a lot and/or you are pushing the loading limits for your tow car or truck, there are 'Electric Hydraulic' systems available that use an electric pump on the trailer tongue to actuate the trailer brakes. They cost a bit more, but they offer the much longer service life and much better braking power of hydraulic disc brakes.

And they still give you the electric brakes advantage of a dashboard control to apply trailer brakes separately if it starts fishtailing - might make the difference between a safe trip and a big wreck.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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Thanks for the advice and info (snipped what I'm not replying too).

I've seen, on the dealers (TCS) website, the add-on brake kits, and the trailer has 15" tires, but I don't know what to look at/for. I called and it doesn't have electric brakes, is there some easy to spot method to know if they have the "Backing Plate" without taking it apart?

Since the trailer can handle more than #1000 (actually #2960) then I think it's important that I get the electronic brakes asap (once I buy it). Bringing it home empty should not be a problem without them, but I'll spend the weekend putting them on.

Thanks for the info again.

Reply to
Leythos

The axles designed to have brakes installed will have a machined flat spot within an inch or so of the grease seals for the hub wheel bearings, probably with four or six evenly spaced holes for the backing plate to bolt up to. If it's designed for disc brakes, there might be two bigger lugs on one side only for the caliper bracket. Look for empty holes and machined flat mounting bosses.

The easiest thing is to look up in the trailer paperwork who made the axles, and call a trailer supply. Tell them what axles and what trailer, and they can send you a kit with all the pieces you need - backing plates, brakes, new hubs with the drums or rotors, etc.

Not difficult to install, but you do have to know right from left (the parts are not interchangeable between sides) and how to Read and Follow The Instructions. Some people can't get the hang of that...

A few of the many places to get trailer parts (No endorsements):

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If they'll fit, Disc Brakes are probably easier to maintain in the long run - conventional electric brakes have an IMNSHO Rube Goldberg system where the actuating electromagnet grips the flat inner face of the drum, and that magnet being pushed sideways has friction material on the face (that also wears out) and actuates the levers that push the brake shoes onto the inner surface of the main drum, where the real work happens.

And if your system has a breakaway battery, check or replace it regularly. And hook the breakaway cable (surge or electric) securely to somewhere OTHER than the actual trailer hitch, in case the hitch fails. Not a fun feeling to be going down a hill and see a trailer passing you - and realize it's yours.../

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

THey are built without because it cost less to build them that way, (more profit) not because people do not want them

Again "seller" do not order them mainly because of cost and buyer want to save money too. Gnerally if trailer weight exceed vehicalweight by about 25 to 30% it should have brakes regardless of law in state. A 5 or 6000 lb SUV can stop a 1500 or 2000 pound trailer easier than a

3500 pound one.

Cost is the major factor here and cost for sales usually takes the lead over safety.

Dpends on the axle design as some are harder to add brakes to than other and worst case a swap out to a new axle with brakes is not hard to do and you can recoup some costs with resale of old axle.

Never seen a electro hydrolic surge brake setup bit I have towed with many surge brake setup that were strickly mechanical and they worked great and some were on some pretty heavy trailer (more than 7 tons). Personally I would not want a electro surge setup because it means there is more to go wrong with it vs plain surge brakes that are pretty simple and relaible.

Good point.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Thanks again for the great information.

Reply to
Leythos

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