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96 4Runner - Rad issues

Hey guys,

Looking for some input here.

Here's my story, was stuck in a lineup to cross the can / us border 2 weeks ago for 1.5 hrs. It was mid 80's and humid, so we had the AC on. I had never had trouble with the truck before so I just idled along for the

1.5 hrs moving maybe 10 feet every 5 minutes or so sucking in the car ahead of me's exhaust, not paying attention to the gauges. ( I know, I know) by the time I was almost to the border agent, I noticed steam coming from the hood. I looked at the temp gauge, and for the first time ever, it was well above the normal 1/2 point. It was in the red zone! Aack!! the heater went on full blast, and the engine went off. After waiting 10 mins, I started it up again, started fine, and kept the heater on. The temp slowly dropped, and by the time I was thru the line, the temp gauge was back to normal. Once back on the interstate, the truck drove fine, heat stayed constant, and everything was back to normal. I've been driving it short distances recently, including idling in drive thru lineups and bank tellers ect. and the temp has not wavered since. It rises to half and stays pegged there just like before. So, I am thinking things are fine still, but, that my cooling system is losing capacity. I've done longer waits in the same vehicle without incident in similar situations before.

What can I do to restore the cooling systems capability, or am I over reacting and should just be a bit more cautious in longer lines like that?

Looking at the AC condenser, a lot ( 25 % ish) of fins are bent / smashed and I'm thinking that has something to do with my problem ( reducing air flow) Also, looking at the back side of the rad thru the fan, some of the fins in the middle of the rad are slightly different colors from those in the corners.

So, should I replace the Rad? AC Condenser? Both? rad fluid is a nice colour and looks good still. level stays fine and everything else seems to be running just fine. I want to get this before it gets worse.

How hard is it to replace the rad? It doesn't look like its all that bad, but... and how about the AC condenser? any idea of costs for a DIY?

If the AC needs work, the dealers getting it, as I don't have the tools for that.

Thanks for your input

Dave

Reply to
Zephyr
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So it overheated in standing traffic and now it does not?

My '94 has an auxilary electric cooling fan which turns on with the AC.. Does yours have one, and is it working?

dennis in nca

Reply to
rigger

Get a Fin Comb.

Reply to
Joseph Myers

You might also do a quality cooling system flush such as the BG service. Certainly, try to straignten out the fins with the comb tool. Good luck. Al

Reply to
al

(snipped the unfortunate stuff)

Replace the rad, flush the system including heater circuit and ensure that the correct coolant/antifreeze/antiboil is added.

Make sure that the fans working well and that theres adequate air flow into your rad. (IE: So theres not 10,000watts of lights and bars blocking the way)

Once thats done ensure that the shroud thats supposed to be around the fan is in place (If it came with one from the factory) and drive as normal.

Id be doing a Carbon Monoxide test as well before you start in case the head gasket has been damaged due to the overheating.

Scotty

Reply to
Scotty

"Zephyr" wrote in message news:V7adnUa_oZHkkGnbnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

A decrease in the flow of the condensor of only 10% can cause great difficulties in really hot climates, like Phoenix, in the summer. since there has not been any further problems it sounds like there was a airflow or thermal conduction problem. one of the most overlooked problems for cooling efficency is a dirty radiator or condenser. this can be solved most of the time by washing out the condensor and radiator with a garden hose or at the car wash. As long as the temp does not start spending time above the normal range you shoulden't have any more problems. Please remember that routine maintenance of your cooling and A/C system is absolutly necessary, flushing and changing coolant is still needed at least every two years, more often in hotter climates, when you change hoses and rad cap. If the A/C is not cooling properly or you don't think that it's cooling well take it to a certified A/C shop to have it checked out (PS they can straiten the fins without changing the condensor). also check to see if your cooling fan is working properly, electric fans can go bad and the slight change in airflow may be completly unnoticable to you but makes a major differance to your engine. The fan clutch is another culprit if it's worn out there won't be enough air flow when you are idling. with the engine hot turn off the engine and (with an insulator, glove, rag, etc.) rotate the fan blade to see if it is stiff or tuns easily (it should turn if it does not replace the clutch it's wasting gas)turning too easily means that the internals are worn out and it needs to be replaced, wobbling and look out for flying debris, like parts of your rad, fan blades and/or condensor.

Reply to
Christiaan Brown

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