Anyone ever install a Factory Roof Rack?

May 13, 2004 2 Replies

I've got a 95 4runner with a factory electric sunroof and no roof rack. I've found a few at the salvage yard for $50-$60. They look pretty simple except for the threaded fastners that hold it to the roof. They are like round bolts "sandwiched" around the hole like a rivet. They may be that way so as not to interfere with the sunroof tracks or headliner, but they don't look like they can be reused.



Anyone know if these are available somewhere or an equivalent solution? Maybe like a drywall anchor bolt that flairs out when you tighten down.



Thanks


-PM


Google around for RivNut or threaded rivet, they're out there. I have a kit for doing the small sizes (up to 1/4"), they work like a Pop Rivet except they use a threaded mandrel that doesn't pop. No 'pop' relief signal means "pull too hard and when they stop deforming you rip the threads out". Takes a gentle touch to know when to stop - plan on screwing up and drilling out a few. And like a pop rivet, there are many diameter sizes, grip lengths, thread pitches and material types (Steel, Cadmium/Irridite plated steel, aluminum, Stainless) to choose from.

They make a strong anchor point, but the strength of the base metal comes into play - you can pull through the sheetmetal with the riv-nut still fastened to the rack. (though if you can get your hands back there to slip one in, a backing washer would help prevent a pull-through).

The car makers put a reinforcement strip behind them, and use keyed or hexagonal holes & rivets so they can't spin in the holes easily. Or they use welded on nuts under the sheetmetal during the initial roof assembly.

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I once bought a Con-Ferr

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roof rack and theinstructions had you drilling at the point of attachment and provided a nutthat compressed (much like a molly bolt?). This nut was inserted into thehole then the bolt was tightened. Had to be careful, as going overboardtightening the bolt would 'strip' the nut... Rack was quite firmlyattached....

Rick

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