Have you replaced the INSIDE of a Toyota door

It's hard to diagnose without actually looking at the door, but FYI: - the plastic pieces that connect rods and handles are called "clips". - Disconnect the power door lock actuator from the lock rod and see if the actuator operates so you will know if it is the actuator or the lock or rod mechanism.

You should be able to remove the lock cylinder from the door handle so if you replace the handle, you can install the old cylinder so the keys match. The cylinder is probably held in place with a "C" - shaped spring clip.

I recommend you wear gloves and long sleeves when reaching inito the door because the edges of the sheet metal are usually pretty sharp. It is not THAT difficult to work inside there, it just takes patience and a knack for looking at puzzles to see how to get stuff in and out. I have worked on the insides of car doors myself, and it is not that difficult.

If the plastic sheeting tore when pulling it off, use duct tape to repair the tears.

Good luck!

For $10, you can get 24 hours of access to the actual documents the dealership will use from techinfo.toyota.com

The .pdf's can be saved to disk for later if need be. For instance, for one $10 payment, I was able to grab all related PM documentation for my Tacoma, print a copy for the garage, and save a copy to CD for later.

I've used the online documentation for a few jobs and found them to be extremely accurate and complete. Toyota even provides tool and material lists at the start of each procedure.

I think $10 is reasonable even to occasionaly find that I'd be better off paying for the work.

B a r r y wrote in ?news:Wn2Lf.1979$% snipped-for-privacy@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com:

I called Toyota 1-800-622-2033 to order a repair manual & wiring manual.

1-877-762-7666). Unfortunately they take a week to arrive so I had to finish the driver door latch & lock assemblyR&R without benefit of the factory manuals. Anyway, I'm done with that job and I THANK ALL OF YOU for giving me the courage to proceed. This post below is not for me, it's for the next doityourselfer who tries this job.

HERE ARE MY MAIN MISTAKES YOU DON'T WANT TO MAKE (sorry for shouting).

MISTAKE #1 When you remove the driver's door panel, the front-most mid-most clip is not like the rest. I broke mine because I didn't know it was a circular molded knob which means you MUST slide the door panel flat against the door toward the front of the car to get that last clip off. All the other clips are simple anchor expanders (other than the two press clips you removed first).

MISTAKE #2 When you finally pull the driver's door panel off, you must hold the panel against the door and slide forward (see mistake #1) and UP. You slide up to clear the metal tabs which latch onto the top of the door metal like your fingers would if you were hanging off a thin metal cliff. When you do this though, there is a small black plastic clip which falls down. I put the door panel back on without using this small (1 inch long) black clip because I couldn't figure out where it really goes.

MISTAKE #3 You must remove the driver's door rearward window track to pull out the latch mechanism. DO NOT REMOVE THE RUBBER portion of the track! Just remove the two bolts holding down the steel portion of the window track. Then pull the track out. If you leave the track in, you can get the door latch and locking mechanism off, but you can't get it back on so you may as well remove the latch before removing the door latch & lock mechanism.

MISTAKE #4 Do NOT wait until the end to screw back on the door pull-up lock knob! This knob screws on but it's rectangular in a rectangular slot so if you wait until the end, you can't screw it down all the way. I had to remove the door panel for a second time in order to put this knob back on properly.

MISTAKE #5 Same thing with the inside door handle. Don't wait until the end or you'll have to take the door panel off again like I did. The Chilton says to remove the white plastic clip on the inside door handle rod but I didn't need to so I had to initially thread the inside door handle through the door panel to remove the door panel. It was one of the last things I did when I took off the door panel and it should have been one of the first things I did when I put the door panel back on but I forgot. So make sure you thread the inside door handle through the cutout for it on the door panel BEFORE putting the door panel back on!

MISTAKE #6 DO NOT put any plastic clips on prematurely! The original problem was the outside door handle would not unlock the door but the key would. It turns out the outside door handle has two rods connected to it via clips. The larger yellow clip holds the open/close rod while the smaller pink clip holds the keyhole lock/unlock rod. My yellow open/close rod clip broke off and that is why the door handle would not unlock the door but the keyhole lock did unlock the door. This yellow open/close rod clip very often breaks according to the Toyota dealership (it is a major design flaw). Luckily, they sell the yellow clip for a few bucks so I bought one. Since I had a few days to go before my door latch assembly came in, I put the new clip on the old mechanism so that I'd have the outside door handle work until the new mechanism arrived. That was a big mistake! You can't get that yellow clip off without destroying it. I had to go back to the dealership to buy a new clip. Luckily it was in stock.

I hope that by posting these six mistakes I made today, you won't make them!

Thanks for all your advice. You gave me the courage to proceed.

Stu

"Ray O" wrote in news:eaab9$43fca970$44a4a10d$ snipped-for-privacy@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

Thanks for giving me the courage to attempt the job myself (I wonder how much I saved in labor)???

So that others are more efficient, here is what I did today.

STEP 1 Remove the one philips head screw holding the inside door unlock knob to the door metal. Note there are only three screws holding that door panel on (the rest are metal clips). If you can get the inside door unlock handle assembly off by sliding it forward, do so. I did not have to unclip the white clip holding the inside door unlock bar off, but you may need to remove this clip.

STEP 2 Pry up the arm rest velour which was held on with two metal clips.

STEP 3 Under the arm rest remove two philips head screws. Note there are no more screws to remove to get the door panel off. The rest are clips.

STEP 4 Remove the one push anchor plastic clip near the front of the door panel. This push/pull clip is covered by the dashboard when the driver door is closed so the door must be open (slim jim it if it is locked shut). Push the pin in and pull the clip off. There are only two of these clips that come out the front of the panel toward the interior of the truck.

STEP 5 Remove the one push anchor plastic clip near the rear of the door panel. This push/pull clip is near the B-pillar. This is the second of the two clips which come out toward the truck interior. All other clips stay on the panel.

STEP 6 Lying on your back under the bottom of the door, pry the rearmost bottommost portion of the door panel an inch off. It is only held on to the door with a plastic clip. Work your way around the bottom toward the front of the truck and up the rear side of the door panel prying off the clips one by one. DO NOT pry off at the centermost frontmost clip as it is not the same as the rest.

STEP 7 Push the door panel horizontally UP and FORWARD at the same time. You need to push up to unhook from the top door edge and you need to push forward to unhook from the one clip that is different.

STEP 8 Now that the door panel is loose, you can force out the inside door unlock mechanism so it is behind the panel instead of in front of the door panel. I did not have to unclip it from its white clip holding the inside door unlock bar, but you might have to.

STEP 9 Likewise with the power door, windows, & mirror assembly. You can just pry it off the door, leaving both harness connectors still connected.

STEP 10 At this point, your door panel is off and you can pull back 1/3 of the plastic sheeting to access the door assembly inside.

STEP 11 Leaving the window in the up position, unscrew the two 10mm bolts holding on the rearward window slider metal. Slide the metal slot out from the rubber slot and pull it away.

STEP 12 Remove the three torx bolts holding the door latch onto the door metal.

STEP 13 Remove the one bolt left holding the door latch assembly to the door. This bolt is below and to the left of where the arm rest was originally.

STEP 14 Remove three of the four rods from the door latch mechanism:

- The outside door open/close bar (yellow plastic clip)

- The outside door keyhole lock/unlock bar (pink plastic clip)

- The inside door open/close bar (yellow plastic clip (not a white one)) The fourth rod is the door knob up/down rod held on with a yellow clip.

STEP 15 Unclip the two harness connectors. I'm not sure why there are two. I guess one is for the lock/unlock and the other is for the power window.

1. Remove the door latch and power lock/unlock assembly (p/n 69040-

35150) from the door and replace with the new parts by reversing the procedure above.

I type this because I wish I had these instructions BEFORE I started and I want all others to not have the problems I had.

Thanks to you guys, I was able to do the job in about 3 or 4 hours total (I'm sure a mechanic could do the job in about 1/4th that time).

BTW, does anyone know how many hours is the job rate is for a Toyota

1998 4runner with electric doors and mirros door latch lock assembly R&R? I'd like to see how much money I saved at $120 an hour shop rate.

Stu

Some years ago, the car I then owned developed a fault, whose repair called for one small part, rather as with your adventure.

I went to the dealer's spares department, waved the dead part at the man and asked, "Have you any of these?"

The man sort-of-grinned and went into the back of the shop. He came back with a box large enough to hold (eg) a soccer ball and set it on the counter. It was half full of the little beggars.

"Yes," he said, "we these go wrong quite often."

When the manufacturers don't bother to wrap them individually, you _know_ they're in demand.

Stu,

Thank you for posting the very thorough description and mistakes. Most of the people who post here casually never bother to report their results so it is difficult to tell if the advice actually worked or not.

My wild guess estimate of the warranty flat rate time is around 1.8 hours, Chilton and Motors flat rate time is probably 2.5 hours.

Congratulations on getting the job done!