Re: Door stuck shut covers panel screws (how to remove?)

"*" wrote in news:01c62289$5674d8c0$5fa3c3d8@race:

> You can - sometimes - drop the window down and access the release > mechanisms and linkages with a "slimjim"......or other similar > tool/device......

I should let you know that this trick worked!. Thanks!

I bought two different sizes of "slim jim" and jiggled them for more than

30 minutes. Suddenly ... the driver's door just opened like it was never locked in the first place. Wierd. Maybe it just gave up!

Anyway, the open door actually cleared TWO push/pull type plastic anchors. One was covered by the dash and another was covered by the b pillar.

Interestingly, there are only three steel screws holding the door panel onto the door on the 1998 Toyota 4Runner with electric windows & mirror. Two were under the padded arm rest and one was in the middle of the inside door handle escutcheon.

There were about six or so plastic anchors in addition to the two push/pull anchors (the kind with a button in the middle). And there was a single round clip that I ended up breaking because I didn't know about it.

The door panel, even though it looks like it's two pieces, came off as one piece, including the speaker cover and the entire power window, lock, and mirror controls. I had to pry these controls off the door handle before I could move the door panel more than a foot away from the door. Likewise with the inside door handle which I had to twist to push through the cutaway in the door panel before I could move the door panel away from the door itself.

Even more interestingly, the latch assembly (P/N 69040-35150) has four different rods attached to it.

Rod #1 goes to the outside door handle (yellow plastic clip) Rod #2 goes to the outside door lock mechanism (pink plastic clip) Rod #3 goes to the up/down lock button (white plastic clip) Rod #4 goes to the inside door unlock handle (yello plastic clip)

The part that broke was the yellow plastic clip that goes onto the outside door handle. The Toyota dealership says they sell this four dollar part a few times a week. They say it always breaks. I love my Toyota but after looking at this clip, and knowing I didn't abuse the door handle, I'd say it's the first design flaw I've seen in my 1997 Toyota. Not good, but not bad compared to the other guys.

Anyway, I learned a lot of lessons (I had to take the door panel off three times because there is a certain sequence which has to be followed) which I will try to write up so the next Toyota owner can get started sooner.

Thanks for all your help, I'll write up the steps to R&R the door latch mechanism separately.

Stu

Reply to
Stuart A. Bronstein
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Good news and bad news on the $200 dollar Toyota shop manuals.

The good news is that they arrived in less than a week and that the two repair manuals total about four inches of paper. The electrical wiring diagram manual is only about 1/4 inch thick, but it's in color.

The bad news is that I read the section on how to remove and replace the front driver's power door lock and latch assembly (Body - Front Door pages BO8 to BO10) and if I didn't already know how to do it, I'd be confused.

To be fair, at least I didn't have to figure out which diagram to use like I did with the Chilton shop manual. But, the writing in this manual looks like it came from someone who never did the job. For example, step 5 says "remove the two clips and the two screws". If I didn't already do the job, I'd never know this is the two push/pull anchors (one near the A pillar and one near the B pillar) in the door panel and the two screws can only be the two screws below the velour arm rest as there are only three screws in the whole door.

The Toyota shop manual does show there are 8 clips to be removed around the perimeter of the door panel, but it doesn't state that the front most center most clip is a DIFFERENT type which has to be slid off or it will break the panel (which is what happened to me).

Nonetheless, I'm glad I received the shop manuals so I can move on to the next job (brakes).

Thanks again for all your help. I always go to here to look first how to do a job and I hope this helps the folks who follow us.

Stu

Reply to
Stuart A. Bronstein

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