Need help identifying alarm in 1996 Tacoma

"Peter Bogiatzidis" wrote in message news:7x9Xl.25459$ snipped-for-privacy@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com... | Hello, | | I'm trying to help out a friend who has a 1996 Tacoma equipped with a

4 cyl. | engine and 5 speed manual transmission. | | The stoplight (15A) and taillight (10A) fuses keep blowing out. Obviously, | that means that there's a solid short circuit somewhere on each circuit. | | I was told that the vehicle has an alarm system that, according to my | friend, "doesn't work". Upon closer inspection, I found a rat's nest of | wiring with plug-in type alarm connectors under the dash, but no alarm | module. No wonder the alarm system didn't work. There was no alarm system. | All that I found was a starter disable module that showed its various inputs | such as 12V, ignition 1, ignition 2, etc. with its output going to one of | the alarm connectors. After unbundling the mess, I was able to clear the | trouble. No more blown fuses on either circuit. That was the good news. | | With that, I started dressing up the wiring as best as possible while | testing along the way to make sure that everything still worked. Once I had | the wiring secured and tested, I performed one final test and also started | the vehicle. That's when it all fell apart. The fuses blew out again. So, | back to the drawing board. | | I pulled the wiring down and looked for any possible shorted wires, but | couldn't find any. Bear in mind that I didn't have any wiring diagram for | the "alarm" system. While trying to trace out where the wires came from and | went to, I removed the kick panel and was surprised to find the disconnected | alarm module there. Unfortunately, the only markings on it are FM BRAIN with | an FCC ID: LLRRS-681 and Made in China. Online searches for information on | it came up empty. There is a small diagram on the back of the module which | confirms what I was able to figure out previously with the help of the | starter disable module markings. Basically, 12V power, ground, ignition | power, and so on. What is puzzling is that even if there is power going to | one of the connectors, there's no way that it can touch anything to short | out. But somehow, somewhere, there is a short circuit. | | I realize that this alarm system isn't really vehicle specific, but lacking | any other alternative, I figured I'd take a shot that perhaps someone here | in the group may have run into one of these "alarm" systems before. It may | have been popular back in 1996, which is why it was used. | | At this point, the vehicle is still not fixed. I'm hoping that with some | more information I may be able to disconnect all of the jury-rigged wiring | altogether and get the lights working properly again. | | Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group. | | Peter. | |

Do you have a DVM or other meter that will read resistance or continuity? If so, with the fuses removed check from the fuse block connector to ground for a short as you move the wires around.

The brake light wires should not have voltage on them past the brake light switch until the brake peddle is depressed. If the fuse is blowing before the peddle is depressed then the problem is not with the wiring to the brake lights.

One method I have used is to put a bulb in place of the fuse. The bulb will light up if there is a short to ground past the fuse block. I have also seen (rarely) problems in the bulbs or bulb sockets causing weird symptoms. If I were working on it I would take out all of the stop/tail light bulbs which may have the front parking lights on the same circuit. If the problem goes away then start putting things back together until the problem reappears.

If it were me I would restore the wiring to the original condition. Getting rid of any splices and connections that were for the alarm.

Check the back of the fuse block to make sure there isn't any extra wire on the fuses that was used for the alarm system.

A search turned up this page for remote alarm/starter accessories--

be you can see something you recognize.

Thanks for your post.

I looked at the link yesterday, but couldn't find anything that looked the same.

When I worked on the truck again later in the day, I stumbled upon a couple of jury-rigged wires inside the truck bed near the tailgate. They were hardly noticeable and went directly to one of the tail lights. Most likely a poor attempt at connecting trailer lights. I had looked for a trailer light connector down by the hitch the day before, but hadn't found one. I hadn't looked in the truck bed because, after unbundling the alarm wiring from under the dash, the lights had begun to work fine at one point the day before.

In any case, I removed the extra wiring from the taillight and all of the alarm wiring. While I was at it, I also checked the bulb and socket and wound up replacing the bulb because the glass portion of it had come loose from the base, although it still worked. Bottom line, the problem is solved.

Thanks again for your help.

Peter.

| > Do you have a DVM or other meter that will read resistance or | > continuity? If so, with the fuses removed check from the fuse block | > connector to ground for a short as you move the wires around. | >

| > The brake light wires should not have voltage on them past the brake | > light switch until the brake peddle is depressed. If the fuse is blowing | > before the peddle is depressed then the problem is not with the wiring | > to the brake lights. | >

| > One method I have used is to put a bulb in place of the fuse. The bulb | > will light up if there is a short to ground past the fuse block. I have | > also seen (rarely) problems in the bulbs or bulb sockets causing weird | > symptoms. If I were working on it I would take out all of the stop/tail | > light bulbs which may have the front parking lights on the same circuit. | > If the problem goes away then start putting things back together until | > the problem reappears. | >

| > If it were me I would restore the wiring to the original condition. | > Getting rid of any splices and connections that were for the alarm. | >

| > Check the back of the fuse block to make sure there isn't any extra wire | > on the fuses that was used for the alarm system. | >

| > A search turned up this page for remote alarm/starter accessories-- | >

| > May be you can see something you recognize.| >

| > -- | > "We have no government armed with power capable of contending with human | > passions unbridled by morality and religion. Avarice, ambition, revenge, | > or gallantry, would break the strongest cords of our Constitution as a | > whale goes through a net. Our Constitution was made only for a moral and | > religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any | > other." --John Adams, October 11, 1798 | >

| > Anyolmouse | >

| | Thanks for your post. | | I looked at the link yesterday, but couldn't find anything that looked the | same. | | When I worked on the truck again later in the day, I stumbled upon a couple | of jury-rigged wires inside the truck bed near the tailgate. They were | hardly noticeable and went directly to one of the tail lights. Most likely a | poor attempt at connecting trailer lights. I had looked for a trailer light | connector down by the hitch the day before, but hadn't found one. I hadn't | looked in the truck bed because, after unbundling the alarm wiring from | under the dash, the lights had begun to work fine at one point the day | before. | | In any case, I removed the extra wiring from the taillight and all of the | alarm wiring. While I was at it, I also checked the bulb and socket and | wound up replacing the bulb because the glass portion of it had come loose | from the base, although it still worked. Bottom line, the problem is solved. | | Thanks again for your help. | | Peter. | |

Thanks for posting the results. Glad to have helped in solving the problem.