oil filters

The only reason I can think of to remove the drain plug would be to drain the oil.

He said that the same gasket that is on the drain plug when you remove the plug can be used again when you screw the plug into the pan but it's better to use a new one.

Clear now?

Skip

Reply to
skipfromla
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$15-20 an hour tops.

Reply to
rb

I can't help it if they don't get paid enough, maybe if they had an actual degree in Mechanical Engineering, were NATE certified, and certified Master Technicians, their pay would be more. As a Master Technician in rural south Mississippi, the $25/hr I get paid is

*only* my salary, not my total compensation package.
Reply to
Noon-Air

So then to change the oil yourself which you said takes 2 hours is more like $50 dollars.Not the $220 as stated. You would think most techs could change their oil in less than 2 hours. Get real..............

Reply to
rb
197k. original gasket.
Reply to
tbuggle

I've always bought Frams for about $2.50 and changed the oil/filter every

3k. All my cars, Hilux, Surf, and 4Runner ran strong for about 200K miles with min oil consumption. My latest a 2000 Tundra V-8 has 102K miles on synthetic and doesn't use a drop between oil changes. Still using Frams and Walmart $13.00/5qt synthetic 5W-30.

Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

$25hr, I hope ya cost of living is pretty cheap, HVAC Techs here get at least $30 some I talk to closer to $40.

(Mind you Australia is among the best places on earth to live so Im quite Biased)

Reply to
Scotty

Reply to
forte

I'm confused by horizontal. Mine is almost vertical inlet side down, located on top of the engine (going to be easy to change, I like that).

Will the Toyota filter hold oil when removed? In other words, will it not spill out its contents when removing it from the truck? I notice it is in a tray with a drain hole. Should I put a container under that hole?

Frank

"bearman" wrote:

Reply to
Frank Boettcher

I call B.S. on magnets - prove it!

Reply to
Tekkie®

Toyota filters are very good, but nothing special. I haven't seen a magnet in any I've cut open, nor an anti-siphon device. I'd use Toyota, Baldwin/Hastings, Purolator, WIX/NAPA-Gold. I'd avoid the well known cheapies like Fram, Warner, some of the other real cheapies. Always use the filter specified in the filter maker's catalog for your engine. In the unlikely event the filter fails and your engine is damaged, the filter maker is responsible only if you're using the filter they recommend for your engine.

Ken

Frank Boettcher wrote:

Reply to
K. Shelton

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