I have an old Toyota pickup that needs a new axle seal and need to get the brake drum off the rear axle, but it is frozen solid. I tried the old torch trick, but this didn't work this time. Any ideas on how to remove it?
If it is rusted to the axle flange and you can't remove it by heating it with a torch I would suggest cutting it off with the torch. If it is hanging up on the brake shoes try backing off on the adjuster.
First case, rusted to the axle flange. My torch is only a plumbing torch, so I can't cut it off with the torch. Guess I need to take it to the shop to have them do it :(
Simple go to a rental shop and get a big puller that will span drum. Attach puller and snug it up good and if it does not pop off then, smack it with a big hammer once or twice and it will pop between tension and impact. Works every time. I would NEVER use a torch to cut it off.
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
Obviously, those giving adivce haven't changed many brakes on Toyota trucks. If you look, there are 2 10mm threaded holes on the drum. Tighten some bolts in them, while smacking the drum with a hammer, and it'll pop loose.
Yup, works great.
That's what I ended up doing today. Then I had fun getting the axle removed from the brake backing plate assembly. Turn out I need some very special tooling to do it, so it is at a driveline shop, apparently the only one in the area capable of separating them. Tomorrow it will have a new bearing and 2 new seals. Honestly, the seals look pretty good. My guess is that the sloppy bearing just put too much pressure on the seals and opened up a gap for the gear lube to leak out. That whole inside was covered with gear lube!
you still have to know what you're doing. I've seen those holes get stripped many times. then you end up using penetrating oil and rapping on the drum with a hammer, between the studs, slowly working the drum loose. of course, the self adjusters need to be backed off as much as possible.
no real special tooling needed. just a hydraulic press, a bearing separator plate, and steel plates to support the separator plate. just need to cut off the lock ring 1st, then press off the bearing without damaging the backing plate. I'd think most decent shops could have done it.
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