Run truck without oil

No harm was done.

Daniel B. Martin

Not if it isn't making any strange noises.

That is, you SHOULD be concerned. but if you don't hear any strange noise, then your concern can take a back burner. If you can't sleep at night, trade it in.

If the engine was only started at normal curb idle (even with the "idle flare" as the computer remembers the idle setting) for 10 to 15 seconds, and you went 'Oh Sh*t! No Oil!' and shut it right back down, there's little chance of doing any significant damage. The oil film from the last time the engine was run, and the residual oil that is trapped in the oil galleries will give you a little protection /if/ the engine was not loaded at all.

You might have taken a thousand miles of life off the main bearings

- but when they're good for 300,000 miles plus for starters, that's not a whole lot.

Now if you jumped in, threw it in gear and drove to the corner before you realized that the oil gauge wasn't moving, the chances go up some that you'll have problems.

But if you got on the freeway and up to full speed, and then it started making funny sounds or smells before you noticed the oil pressure and shut it down, then you could be in a heap of trouble.

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That's some real ethical advice Jeff: if you think the engine is damaged, pass it off and screw the next owner. Lovely.

Are you talking 10-15 seconds at idle, or 10-15 seconds driving up a steep grade?

Also, how long between the last time the engine was run with oil and the time it was run without. If this occurred after an oil change where you had properly warmed up the engine before draining, and then the engine had *not* been sitting a long time before you accidentally started and idled it, I wouldn't be too concerned: there should have been enough residual oil in the journal bearings and galleys to keep things from getting damaged.

- Michael

Uhh... that should be oil "galleries", not galleys!

- Michael

lol.....that isn't anything to worry about. I've known people to run their cars for 50 miles or more without oil, but I wouldn't ever recommend that. I once changed the oil and filter in my truck, not realizing the gasket from the old filter stuck tight to the engine. When I put the new filter on, the old gasket twisted and formed a kink allowing a gap. I drove the 4 miles to work unknowingly spraying oil all over the road as I did. When I got about 1 mile from work the oil light came on. Not wanting to change the oil at work, I just drove it home empty.....albeit, very easily. Even the few remaining drops of today's oil will protect an engine if it's not under any heavy loads for some distance/time, depending on the condition of the engine to start with of course. Having said that, that's probably another good reason to occasionally add a pint of some of the thicker/stickier specialty oils like a Slick

50.

And you would do what exactly? Just kick yourself and pay to recondition the motor?

Im with Jeff.

"Bob" sez:

No, there is/was sufficient residual oil in/on the journals and other mating surfaces and this combined with the short period of time (particularly not under load - I assume the engine was idling) is insufficient to cause any significant wear or galling of the surfaces.

Good wrenchin' to ya, VLJ

Truck was at idle. I was changing the oil and just drain the oil and changed the filter when I had to turn the key on to get mileage (digital odometer) and stupid me I turned the key on.

The truck was run the day before so hopefully there was stil a coating on everything.

Remember the Penzoil TV commercial years ago when they took a fleet of taxi cabs, drain the oil and then drove them around New Jersey.

Bob wrote:

It frequently happens that people drain their oil and then forget to refill before starting. But it sounds like you *knew* you weren't supposed to start the truck, but did so by accident. I'm just curious, but then how is it that you left it running for 10-15 seconds? Seems to me you would have shut it off as soon as the engine started to turn over.

One of the first steps in an oil change is to warm up the engine. Not only does it make the old oil flow more freely (and helps get any sludge out of the bottom of the pan), but it keeps the oil pump freshly primed so that it comes up to pressure quickly after the oil change (which is important since there will be some air pockets in the oil supply galleries as a result of the oil/filter change). The fresh coat of oil inside the engine will also help protect you from goofs like this.

- Michael

Never change the oil on a cold engine.

Warming the engine up makes sure any solids in the engine are suspended so they can be removed.

coating

Do not panic, all is well. No harm done. ALso, always change oil on a warm engine because solids can settle out of oil overnight in a cold engine and you want everything out of engine when you change the oil.

FYI on polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE aka "Teflon") and Slick 50

PTFE has zero effects though in extreme cases where cyclinder head temperatures exceed 620 F, PTFE will melt and gum up oil galleries. The conventional oil base "beads" off of hot metal, that is until temperatures cause the oil to burn.

You are probably thinking about the effects of polyol ester based (synthetic) motor oils adhering to hot metal and the strength and durability of the film.