Stalling 90 4runner

How full is your fuel tank, Im thinking blocked breather.

Thanks for the response. My fuel tank is half full. Any way to check for this?

Well I disconnected the vaccum line to the EGR valve to see if this would cure my random stalling. And of course on the way into work it stalled 3 times....:-( . I guess thats not it. But strange enough I thought my problem was getting worse but on my way home this evening it didnt stall once !!! Yesterday it was really hot outside and stalled like 5 times. And this evening it was much cooler and raining and didnt stall once. I dunno coincendince ? I havent noticed anything out of the ordinary with the temp guage.

Someone had mentioned a temperature sensor failing in one post I read. Could this be the culprit? Where is this sensor and can I bypass it temporarily to see if this is the problem? But then again I am not getting a check engine light?

Hmmm

Cheers Jason

I am still reading as many post as I can about stalling 4runners and I found another post that seems similar to my problem. Except it was a 4 cylinder.

Where a wire wire to the ECU was shorting out intermittently. They insulated it, and the problem *finally* seems to be cured. The explanation written on the invoice says "Stalls due to loss of TGF signal to ECM. Shorted due to wire being worn through on fuel rail." The service manager told me that this was causing the ignition computer to shut off the fuel injectors.

and...

"This is actually called Igf, or ignition fired, this is a confirmation

that you have after Igt or ignition trigger , no igf, youll loose spark. there is a spot near the center of the fuel rail that rubs through the wire harness (fixed mine before it became trouble) but its usually blows the 15amp EFI fuse (power one side of injectors), they where probably being straight up with you.

Rick, Toyota Master/ASE Master/L-1 "

Where is this wire harness located...like what and where is the fuel rail ?

I would like to check this out. I suppose you think it would blow the fuse but anyway.

What do you think?

Cheers Jason

The auto shop where I work when we have this kind of problem we suspect either the ignition module or fuel pump. We run the car and when it stalls we have one person jump out and open hood and check for spark quickly. If no spark suspect ignition module (transistors heat up or connection opens, could also be coil) If strong spark we suspect fuel pump or fuel system problem. Remember safety don't forget to pull over to safe area, put car in park or set handbrake so you don't run over tester. and practise safely pulling a accessible wire and putting a phillip screwdrive in boot and holding shaft 1/2 to 3/4 inch from metal engine part or have spark tester already hooked to valve cover, watch out for fan or other moving parts, or hot parts. You might have to test it a few times to make sure you didn't take too long and engine runs anyway.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for the response. I found a guy parting out a 4runner on ebay. I have bought a ignitor/coil and the EFI relay for $35 . So I am going to try that to see if I have any luck. I will post my results.

Cheers Jason

I went out and bought myself a Haynes repair manual...cause i needed to know where to look....

So turns out there is another relay " Circuit Opening Relay" located above the ECU computer on the passengers side kick panel area..I had to

take the glove box and speaker off to get at it. Well It definetly had a case of the "Green Monsters" (corrosion)

This truck has a bit of a water leak when it rains on the lower passengers side windshield...rust rust rust...Canadain winters...The ecu was the first thing I inspected because of this water leak. The ecu

seemed to be free of corrosion..but I didnt know there was a Main relay

right above it that absorbed some of this water over the years.

I did a simple continuity test on the relay and it seemed fine with some scratching on the terminals. I could hear it click....so I scratched it up a bit more and put it back in.

So I put my meter back on the fuel pump connector and cranked it over...Well Well Well...I now am reading well 11volts while cranking....closer to what it should be to run the fuel pump.

I will have to get the fuel tank back on and see if this sucker will run for me again.

Good news here !!!

I put the fuel tank back on.... and it started right up!!

I hope I have this problem beat !

I will have to clean up that relay a little better...or price a new one?

Then I will have to figure out a way to divert the water leak...

Yes I know I should fix the leak...easier said than done...:-(

Yeah !! Cheers Jason