Gonna sound silly i guess, but is there a way to tell if a timing belt has
been chanaged already on a 96 tacoma 4wd v6?
whats the usual price to change one of these? i was considering doing it
myself but with 4 cams im betting its different than id be used to.
|| Gonna sound silly i guess, but is there a way to tell if a timing
|| belt has been chanaged already on a 96 tacoma 4wd v6?
Not really... that I know of atleast...
|| whats the usual price to change one of these? i was considering
|| doing it myself but with 4 cams im betting its different than id be
|| used to.
$55 for mine...
If the timing belt was replaced by a Toyota dealer, or someone that
used a new Toyota belt, there should be a label on top of the timing
belt cover with the date and milage of the change. I put the label on
when I changed my '97 4Runner but it is easy to miss in the packaging.
Dealer cost for replacemnt of the timing belt ~$270 but while you are
in there, usually replace the water pump too as labor is a big piece
of the water pump replacement cost.
As far as doing it yourself, the job wasn't that hard technically and
there are a lot of instructions, including pictures, on the web. The
hardest problem is removing the crank pulley nut. Lots of swearing
involved. Once that's off, the job is pretty straight forward.
Use a socket on a breaker bar and set the handle against the frame. Then
tap the starter. I think that's how pretty much everyone does it, including
the Toyota mechanics that I have talked to.
Funny how nobody ever talks about how they torque these things back up,
however. I use a large c-clamp on the crank pulley and let it rest against
the frame of the oil pump. It would be interesting to hear other techniques
as I have already had to hacksaw off one c-clamp that got bent pretty bad
during the process.
The first two times I did this, I let the breaker bar contact the frame... I
guess on a truck with big tires, this is the easier method. However, the
method I use now is to find the biggest breaker bar I have and an impact
socket and instead of using the frame to stop the bar, i use a piece of 4x4
on the floor. I turn the bar so that the second I hit the starter, it snaps
free without any slop or slap (hard against the wood). Alternately, you
could use a cheater pipe on the breaker bar if it's too high above the
If you have a manual transmission, put the vehicle in a high gear and yank
the e-brake. Put the fan belts on the engine. While using your torque
wrench to tighten the crank nut, pull on one of the fan belts to help keep
the engine from turning (but don't pinch yourself). This method works well
If you have an automagic transmission, it's a little more difficult to stop
the engine. What I usually do, if I can't pull on the belt and keep the
engine from turning by brute strength (hah!), then I find the inspection
cover on the transmission bell-housing and remove it to gain access to the
starter ring-gear... (have never worked on a Toyota auto, so I don't know if
it has a cover or not)
Once you have access to the ring-gear, you have an assistant jam a large
slotted screwdriver in the works to keep it from turning whilst you torque
the crankshaft bolt to specification.
Honestly, I would tend to shy away from the c-clamp method... bent pulleys
are not good.