timing issues - '94 22RE

Aug 30, 2007 8 Replies

Hello all, After installing a new timing chain (and a few other things :), I'm trying to get the timing to work. It's supposed to be 5' BTDC, but I just can't get it to cooperate. It seems that the distributor is either too far to the left or too far to the right. The only way I can get the timing to read 5' is to turn the distributor so far over that the retaining bolt won't go in anymore. About the best I can get with the retaining screw in is between 8' and 12' BTDC, or if I move the distributor gear over a notch, then the timing's too far advanced the other way. It's enough to cause a dramatic loss of power trying to climb hills or the Check Engine light to come on, or both. It seems to idle fine, i.e. fairly smooth and at the right speed, I think, though I don't have a tach.



Am I doing something wrong, or is there some other solution to try?



Thanks much, gsb



Sounds like you put on the timing chain one sprocket off.

With the engine at Top Dead Center on the 1st cylinder, the indicator mark on the upper sprocket should be 1 sprocket tooth towards the passenger side of the engine.

After posting here, I talked to my mech brother-in-law. He suggested the same thing. Oh well, if it's worth doing once, it's worth doing again. ;)

Thanks Ernie.

Hello Ernie et al,

I took it apart again to confirm tat the chain was set properly. It is

*definitely* set right now, at least according to the manuals (FSM and Haynes). The timing set's a Cloyes; everything is new: sprocket, cam, chain, cover, etc. Now the manuals both say to set the odd links *on the timing marks*, at TDC. That's what I did, but I'm still having the same issues as stated above. I noticed in another timing post on here that Ernie said that the odd link at the top of the cam should be set one tooth toward the passenger side? Could this be the problem? Also, I'm not sure I disabled the vacuum last time, which I noticed in another post here. I don't remember seeing that in the manual either. I'm going to try at least the latter this morning, but wanted somebody to confirm for me that the chain needed to be offset on my particular Toy since I can't find that anywhere else, before I go messing with the chain *again*. Thanks!

OK, one more thing. Before I got going on anything this morning, I reread the manuals, and they both did mention jumping the TE1 and E1 diag slots. I *did* do that before. That must be disabling the vacuum there as mentioned in the other post I saw. I'm still at a loss and am thinking I'll go ahead and throw the chain over one more tooth, against what the manuals say, as I'm not sure what else to do. Other suggestions clearly welcome...:).

Thanks all.

I had the same problem on my 1989 toyota pickup with 22re. with the TE1 and E1 jumped with a paper clip you should be able to hear the engine slow down since any electronic timing advance is eliminated. However in order for the computer to eliminate timing advance the TPS must tell the computer it is in idle so adjust your TPS (throttle position sensor) till when you jump TE1 to E1 you hear the idle speed change.

Aha! I did not know what exactly that jumper was supposed to be doing. Apparently I was trying to time the ignition when the spark advance was on, resulting in a huge offset. So, I tried to locate the TPS, but couldn't find it. The manuals I have don't mention one for the year I have, and I don't know what the equivalent would be.

Basically, when you explained what the jumper was doing, I just sort of 'best-guessed' the timing taking into account the offset and then tried to fine-tune it a little bit by driving. I got it so that it feels pretty good, but the Check Engine light still comes on occasionally (usually cruising in 5th or whatever) indicating a lean condition (code 25).

Does anyone have any idea how to force the truck into understanding it's at idle? I have tried driving it around for a while before timing it, yet it refuses to settle down when I jump the diagnostic -- and I know that the jump is good because I can read the diagnotic flashings using the same jumper in the same positions. I'd feel better being able to see exactly what the timing actually is with the timing gun.

Anyway, *thanks a million* edokam -- I'm at least able to drive the truck happily now after much, much labor and it feels good.

For TPS locataion, see:

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The throttle position sensor is where the throttle plate pivots, so you usually follow the throttle cable to where it turns the throttle plate and the throttle position sensor is on the other side. There is usually two screws in two slots. Loosen the two screws till you can grasp the throttle position sensor and rotate it slightly with your hand, and with the engine idling and parking brake on and TE1 and E1 jumped you'll hear the idle speed change then lock down the TPS and time the engine.

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