Is it normal for a lightweight car to lift a front wheel in tight corners?

The slight lifting you're seeing is typical in those tight, low-speed exits, but it absolutely is costing you time if you can prevent it. On a light, front-drive hatch, the instant you start accelerating out of a hairpin, all that weight shifts forward aggressively, and the suspension needs to manage that load transfer instantly. The fact that it lifted on the inside front wheel suggests the setup is fighting the natural weight transfer too hard. You shouldn't just soften the sway bar; you need to address the overall compliance of the suspension during that transition. Since the car is light and you are in a tight corner, the rear end tends to become unstable or simply loses traction before the front does. If the outside rear wheel is spinning while the inside front wheel is losing contact, you are losing massive amounts of exit speed. Instead of just weakening the front bar, check your spring rates and dampers. If you've upgraded the front bar but kept the original springs and shocks, you might have too stiff a package overall for these slow, high-load transition corners. If the front end is too firm, it won't compress or settle the weight transfer effectively before you hit the throttle, causing that lift. A slight reduction in the front anti-roll stiffness might help settle the car quicker, but you also need to ensure the rear end has enough grip to pull that weight through without breaking traction first. Think about the suspension as a lever. When you apply power, the rear end wants to squat and the nose wants to dive. You need the chassis to absorb that change in load smoothly. If it's too stiff, it resists the shift and sometimes pops a wheel off the pavement becuase it can't compress fast enough. I'd start by taking out one of the sway bar end links and see if that changes the character of the transition in that corner.

Seen this plenty on FWD hatchbacks, mine used to do it constantly on tight skid pad exits. Two things worth checking before you touch the bar. First, tire pressures, I was running way too much front pressure and it made the lift worse, dropped the rears a couple psi and the car settled right down. Second, look at your cross weights if you can get the car on scales. Mine was nearly 60 pounds heavy on the right side, which is exactly the wheel that stays down, so the left front gave up first every time. Fixed that with a coilover perch adjustment and never looked back.

Same thing happened on my old hatch and honestly it was half driver error. I was stabbing the throttle mid exit and that sudden load pop is what tossed the inside wheel up. Once I started rolling into the gas while still unwinding the wheel, the lift mostly vanished with zero changes to the car. A buddy put some chalk marks on my tire sidewalls one weekend and we could see from the scrub pattern how little of the inside tire was even touching thru the hairpin. Might be worth filming your foot work on the same corner before you touch any parts.

My old hatch did the same thing through slow corners and I chased it for months. Turned out half the lift was the inside tire going light on a worn out stock shock, it just couldnt control rebound once the bar unloaded. Swapped fronts for some decent used ones and the wheel came down without touching the bar at all.

Also worth saying, dont assume its costing you time just because it looks dramatic on video. Mine picked up a wheel every run and still set personal bests doing it. If the exit feels clean from the seat and your laptimes arent showing a problem, maybe leave it alone til the stopwatch tells you otherwise.

One thing I'd look at before touching the bar is how much travel the inside front actually has at ride height, because a lift like that often means the suspension is alredy deep into the bump stop when you turn in. On my old hatch the firmer front bar plus a slightly low ride height ate most of the compression travel on that corner, so any roll in a slow turn just picked the wheel up with nowhere left to go. Jack each front corner and compare available travel side to side, they should be pretty close. If the travel looks fine on both sides, I'd honestly leave it, a momentary lift on exit is not the time sink it looks like on video.