Spent the whole winter in the garage and the truck finally fired up yesterday

Oct 31, 2026 Last reply: 11 hours ago 3 Replies
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Been chipping away at this project since November and yesterday was the day she acutally started. Not a crank and quit, an actual idle, sitting there rumbling on the shop floor while I just stood there grinning like an idiot. Still got the interior to sort and the trim to button up, but the hard part is behind me. Biggest surprise was how much time the little stuff ate. Swapped the fuel lines and thought that was a Saturday job, turned into two weekends because of seized fittings near the frame rail. Same with bleeding the brakes, my cheap hand pump bleeder was garbage so I ended up doing it the old fashioned way with a buddy working the pedal. Took twenty minutes once I stopped fighting the tool.



The plan is to have it fully sorted by spring so I can actually use it next year instead of just staring at it. First trip is going to be up to the property with a load of gravel in the back, which feels like a fitting shakedown run. If it hauls a yard of gravel without complaint, everything else will be easy.


My expirience with a similar older build was mostly in the suspension and cab mounts. The little things are always the killer, even when you think you're done. I was working on some frame mounts last year, and the corrosion was just unreal. It felt like it was going to snap off the body right there. I had to get some heavy-duty penetrating spray into those bolts for days before they even began to budge. I even used an impact wrench with a specific socket just to help break the rust seal, but even that took a while. You really have to take the time with the smaller connections becasue if a bolt shears off while you're driving, you are toast.

It taught me that even if the engine runs smooth, if the mounts aren't solid, the ride just won't feel right. I suggest you check the rubber grommets and bushings too. If they're cracked, they are going to vibrate and eventually fail, and that's much more annoying than a slow leak.

My experience with a project like this usally boils down to the wiring harness. Most folks think the engine running means you are done with the electronics, but that is far from true. On the last build I did, I spent an entire day tracing a single electrical run from the back of the cab to the alternator bracket just trying to figure out why the lights flickered when I gave it a hard rev.

I found that the original wiring was all brittle and fused in places, making replacement a massive job. It wasn't the engine parts that took the longest; it was the sheer number of those tiny plastic connectors that were cracked or melted. I spent time soldering every single junction in the main loom because I wasn't trusting the factory clips anymore, expecially around the firewall.

It’s a tedious process, far beyond just tightening bolts. Once you get the electrical work done, you realize the whole setup is just as complex as the frame itself. Next time I get my hands on an old rig, I am starting with the full rewire before even touching the suspension.

I noticed a few people talking about the bolts and the electrical parts, which is a lot to think about. I am more worried about all the places where liquids are coming out, like the seals. When the engine is running, you have to check every single joint to make sure oil or coolant is not dripping onto the ground. I had a friend tell me that tiny leaks can cause big headaches later on. Do you think those types of leaks are easy to spot when you are working under the hood?

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