followup distributor questions

Stick a long screwdriver in there and turn the pump anywhere you want it.

Yeah, but that's not what I'm asking. Does the end of the distributor shaft mesh with it? It sounds like it does. If that's the case then there is only two ways to install the distributor (180 degrees out of phase from each other) for any given engine rotation unless you use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to just the right rotation so that it lines up with the distributor shaft. That brings up another question, though... If the distributor has been out of the engine and the engine has been turned over some (like mine has) then there's no way of knowing what the orientation of the oil pump is so that you can line the distributor up with it right... uh oh... making my head hurt now... So I get cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke, point the rotor to the terminal cap I want to be #1, note the position of the bottom of the distributor shaft so that I could figure out about what orientation the oil pump is at, then use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to that approximate location, then hope for the best and drop the distributor in? I see trouble coming. heh heh

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

Exactly! Could not have said it better!

:-)

JimG

You are thinking too much..... ;-)

Get the engine to TDC and the timing mark on 0 with your finger in #1 plug hole to feel for the compression as you do this.

Stock the vacuum module and the rotor point to the front right of the engine.

This makes the plug wires line up without crossing.

You might have to pull it out and put it back several times to get it right because it (the rotor) turns as it seats down.

The bottom of the distributor does plug into the oil pump. This means you will need a long screw driver to turn the oil pump slot so the distributor can grab it.

This means every time you pull it up to move it a notch on the gear you need to turn the oil pump slot with the screwdriver.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:

The oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, which is driven off the cam shaft. The Distributor can be put in in any position, but it only works in one position relative to the rest of the engine.

You need to

Is it enought to have the plug out?

The piston is at the top each time the timing mark is on TDC, once it is at the top of the exhaust stroke and once at the top of the compression stroke. I thought the valve cover would need to be off to tell which stroke was at the top.

L.W. (ßill) Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

But a cork is more fun. .pop. :)

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 15:57:07 -0700, L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:

Here's what I found today... The finger over the spark plug hole trick did NOT work for me. I'm not saying it doesn't work for some people but I was unable to feel the pressure on the compression stroke. I removed the valve covers and watched the valves on #1 and waited to see both valves close just before the piston began moving upwards. That way I knew it was on the compression stroke. I turned the engine over until my piece of wire in the cylinder no longer rose. I positioned the rotor on the distributor to point to the spot where the terminal was going to be once I put the cap back on...the terminal I wanted to be #1 terminal. The distributor didn't quite seat, but I expected that since the end of it didn't engage the oil pump. I put slight downwards pressure on the distributor as I turned the engine over by hand a little bit.... *clunk* It dropped right in. Man, typing about it sure is easier than doing it. :-) Anyway, I'm pretty sure I have it kinda way too far advanced right now cuz when I turned the key in the ignition it backfired a few times through the carb and even spit a little flame out. I'm thinking too far advanced because that would mean the intake valve is still open and the piston is near the bottom of the intake stroke when that cylinder is getting fired, so the fire/explosion has nowhere to go but through the carb. I'm done with it for the day. Tomorrow I'll go turn the distributor several degress clockwise to retard the timing and try some more... It did start and run about 2 seconds before the spitting of flame stuff so I'm close... Tomorrow I should have it put together. WOOT WOOT! Thanks for all of the help, you guys!

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

Shaggie did pass the time by typing:

Your timing moved as the distributor slid in. (remember the gear is helical) So go through the motion once more to find TDC then check where the rotor is pointing.

I remember going through this once on my old chevy.. man what a pain. :)

Can't you just get it in there pretty close and then rotate the body of the distributor around to get the right advance? I'm hoping I won't have to take the distributor back out again. :-/

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

Seems like it would be even easier if I just rotated the body of the distributor while the hold-down clamp was loose to get it timed right. Easier than lifting it out and putting it back in, right?

"I can hammer it back into shape later." :wq!

Are you looking for easy or right? Go back and read my previous post about setting static timing, follow it step by step and forget all the moving the dist back and forth trying to get it to run. BTW, what are you doing with a wire in the cyl? Great way to damage things. Clean up your timing marks on the balancer and front cover and go by that. If the timing is supposed to be 4 degrees before top centre, set the damper at 4 degrees BTC. Don't look at the rotor, look at either the points or the relucter and pick-up.

Naw, you just stick your finger in the #1 hole as you turn it to the timing mark. The compression stroke is very obvious.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

You are confused..... ;-)

The distributor and rotor can be dropped in in any position at all on Jeep engines. You just have to make wherever the rotor is pointing when TDC compression is reached on #1 the #1 post on the distributor cap, then you clock the wires from there.

Only one way makes the stock plug wires sit 'pretty', that's why the books show where to point the rotor. In this engine's case, the rotor should be to the front drivers side corner.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

CRWLR wrote:

Ouch.....

Ok, well.....

You need a timing light for starters and you need to have the guy that owns it along to use it.

The 'only' way to set the timing is by turning the distributor. You just set a base or main point when you put the thing in.

Like I have been saying all along, you point the rotor on that engine to the drivers side front corner for a 'base' setting when installing and then turn the base to fine tune it. That is where the timing light comes in, you turn the base until the timing light lights up the mark on the crankshaft pulley.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote: