Assembly Soon to Begin

I would love it if you'd take as many pictures of EVERYTHING as possible and post them along with comments explaining what steps you're taking and stuff like that. Like a poor-man's "Bug Me" video. :-)

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Shag Apr 7, 12:10 pm show options

Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled From: Shag - F- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I surely don't want to take the Bug Me guys place even on a poor man's basis. I respect them too much to do that, as I have a few of their Vids and they are wonderful.

But, I will be putting up a poor mans page on CC'ing heads. I think Jan has one of those too, but his is more like the Bug Me calibur compaired to anything I will do. I do this mainly for my self and anyone who needs a laugh, as I am NO webmaster. I am only as good as Frontpage lets me be. And right now, I don't even have Frontpage loaded due to upgrades to the Office suite. But I will have it back soon or will find another utility to use in its place.

Email me if you need help. I do that stuff non-stop.

Jan

I bought their engine rebuilding one, but more information is always a good thing.

I never made a web page until ramva people suggested I make one of my bug adventures years ago. I just use Netscape Composer. You can do it!

*chanting* Go Terry! Wit' yo' bad self! Go Terry! Wit' yo' bad self! :-)

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Your cc's are good enough for a street engine. For that matter your piston weight is acceptable. But as long as you have them in your hands, why not balance everything to +/- 2/10 gram. That is what we do. It only takes a few minutes. If you really want to do it right the rods should be balanced end to end also. However you need a fixture to do this properly. (You were lucky with the COFAPS.) We do several dozens a year and they typically vary by 5 or more grams.

If you don't plan to better balance the pistons/rods, then yes put the closest matches across from each other. (I am assuming the crank/flywheel is balanced). Follow all the VW assembly instructions, paying most attention to the crank end play and torque and torque sequences. The only real places to add some fudge factors are : All 8mm (13mm nut) case bolts should really be about

12lbs. (Not the 14lbs that VW recommends). Head stud nuts should be 18lbs cold and not a quarter oz more. (8mm studs). If you have 10mm studs It will be 21lbs.) Take them up in sequence 6 lbs or so at a time. Recheck them at completion and it is good to check them again after a run in. Crank End play... Error on the high side. and on the glan nut, use red locktite and take it about 20lbs past the VW recommendation.

Have fun.

Jim SR Racing

BTW, We do about 25 to 40 VW engines a year. (1200 and 1600's and most everything else) Feel free to call if you have questions.

Jim SR Racing

If you don't plan to better balance the pistons/rods, then yes put the closest matches across from each other. (I am assuming the crank/flywheel is balanced). Follow all the VW assembly instructions, paying most attention to the crank end play and torque and torque sequences. The only real places to add some fudge factors are : All 8mm (13mm nut) case bolts should really be about

12lbs. (Not the 14lbs that VW recommends). Head stud nuts should be 18lbs cold and not a quarter oz more. (8mm studs). If you have 10mm studs It will be 21lbs.) Take them up in sequence 6 lbs or so at a time. Recheck them at completion and it is good to check them again after a run in. Crank End

play... Error on the high side. and on the glan nut, use red locktite and take it about 20lbs past the VW recommendation.

Have fun.

Jim SR Racing

Reply

Jim Apr 7, 4:52 pm show options

Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled From: "Jim" - Find messages by this author Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 23:52:52 GMT Local: Thurs, Apr 7 2005 4:52 pm Subject: Re: Assembly Soon to Begin Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Report Abuse

BTW, We do about 25 to 40 VW engines a year. (1200 and 1600's and most everything else) Feel free to call if you have questions.

Jim SR Racing

I need to know more about the end to end balancing. I layed one end of the rods on a block of wood and the other on the scale. I tried to put them in the same place each time and came up with one rod that was a few ounces heavier than the others which were within 2/10 ounce of each other overall.

The crank and fly wheel have never been balanced by me. I bought the short block about ten years ago and slap a real bad engine build on it myself(rookie) and it ran very well. I finally got smarter and figured I had better take it back down and correct my sins. Read: old P/C's, unknown head health, no CCing or deck height checking...etc. Very stupid now looking back. I was fortunate that the engine never died and it ran very well considering.

Thanks out to everyone who has contributed to my cause and I appreciate it very much. I have been reading and posting here for several years, RAMVA is great!!!

-- Snip --

Is your bug adventures site still around? You always seemed to do better offroad than I did with a stock 93 blazer.

With enough irresonsibility, the blazer managed morph into an appearance of a true KY vehicle.

lane

I'd like to see these a little closer together, say, all within 1cc.

An ounce is about 28.3 gms, so 0.1 oz is ~2.8 gms. Stock tolerance on new parts is 5 gms on pistons, but it's easy to get them better than 1 gm. I try for 0.1gm.

Rods need to be end-for-end balanced, which you can't do yourself. Take them to a place that can do this.

Yes, put matched pairs opposite each other.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Thanks Jim for you answers. I guess I can forget the rod balancing myself.

Don't give up. The rods split in half.. well 1/4 and 3/4 ;)

Weigh the caps separately from the main part. DO NOT MIX them!! They are numbered and machined to match the identically numbered counterpart perfectly. Numbers also go on the same side, not opposite sides when reassembling. Number is located right next to the bolt, on the flat side just by the seam.

If they need lightening, trim the caps separately and the main rods separately. Then double check them assembled, with nuts on. Remove bearings before weighing and clean the rods, and wipe them dry of oil etc. Do not attempt to remove the wrist pin bushing. Do not remove bolts from the end cap.

if you get them all within 1g (.035oz) of each other, using the lightest one as your target.. you are all set. Weight distribution will be close enough for a stock engine as well as mild street. On a HOT street or race engine you prolly wouldn't even be using stock rods :)

Jan

Yep.

burned the whole site to a CD to back it up.True KY vehicle? Um... errr... :-)

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Watch how far away from that KY reference I stay. Man, this is torture. If I were not so kind......nevermind. lol

Ken Juneau

reassembling.

lightest

This is very good info and will be of great use. I had not thought about unbolting the bottoms and weighing the ends separate.

I was hoping to have been able to report some progress over the weekend, but we had the first softball game for my 8yr old daughter Sat and it turned into a doubleheader. Glad to report they won both games. Sunday I was just wiped out by all the pollen in the air here in Bama. We are smack dab in the middle of Pollen Hell right now and it is killing my energy level. Been through the allergy testing and they say I have none....RIGHT!!!!! I believe that!!! NOT!!

I still need to check the ring gap and set that if needed and get the rods closer to the right weights to each other. Gonna pick up a gallon of WD40 to clean the rods and rid them of cosmolin. That is some really nasty, sticky stuff. YUCK!!!

It is trying me to wait and do this engine right as I am wanting to hurry up and get my bug going again, but I don't want to repeat the same mistakes I made last time. Lesson learned, but it is still hard to wait.