At the point of screaming

Im getting seriously tired of trying to solve my overheating problem. I have tried everything including, external oil cooler, carb adjustments, checking for fuel and oil contamination, decklid stand-offs, thermostat, cooling flaps, timing. If anyone can suggest any more possible soloutions i would be grateful. The next steo i have planned is to incorporate some air scoops somewhere! and if that fails im only going to drive it in the winter!

Engine is: T1 1914cc Twin dual webber 40Idf's

Reply to
PauL Soames
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...more info needed. Compression ratio...type of heads....exhaust choice...etc.

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

What cam?

What distributor?

Which engine lid? (Solid or louvered)

Was it properly jetted and tuned?

Air leaks?

Oil pump?

And last but not least, how do you determine it's running too hot?

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

You still haven't told us what the temp reading was and where it was located... Oil sump? Cyl head??

Just a gut feel that an engine is "too hot" is not enough.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

How do you know it is overheating? Using a temp gauge? Where is it located? Have you tested the gauge to be sure it is correct? What kind of cooler and where is it? Did you remove the original cooler (hope not)? Is the timing correct?

Reply to
jjs

Is your fan belt tight enough?

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Reply to
Dennis Wik

If it realy is overheating you most likely have a cam/compression compability issue. Or you might be running to high oil pressure so the oil bypasses the stock cooler....

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

don't overlook small things like engine compartment seals...tinware missing, and a biggie i see quite often is the freshair vents to the heater boxes either disconnected(if you have heater boxes it is *very* important to run the freshair hoses to them) or the holes for the freshair ducts not being stopped up....direct route for nice hot air that is expelled from the cooling system and then superheated by exhaust....not good for cooling...

------------------- Chris Perdue

"Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug!"

Remove "PANTS" to e-mail

Reply to
Chris Perdue

Oh yea, what octane ggasoline are you using? How much timing advance?

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Ok I can try and answer most of the questions but there are some that are a bit too advanced im only a noob at all this!

Cam is a Engle 110 Bosh 009 dizzy Louvered decklid Oil pump is a full flow pump Heads are 044's Original oil cooler still in place Timing is set at 10 BTDC at 32 max advance (i think need to re-check that today) All original tinware hoses ect still in place.

The reason i think its overheating is because my oil pressure drops after about 20-30 min of driving causing the light to come on at low revs between up to about 20000rpm.

I have a temp gauge but i dont think its mounted in an appropriate position but i couldnt find any where else for it, the sender is on the intake manifold near the spark plugs and reads about 150-200F at the point of the oil light coming on. would it be better to put it in the ehaust port?

Reply to
PauL Soames

Ok I can try and answer most of the questions but there are some that are a bit too advanced im only a noob at all this!

Cam is a Engle 110 Bosh 009 dizzy Louvered decklid Oil pump is a full flow pump Heads are 044's Original oil cooler still in place Timing is set at 10 BTDC at 32 max advance (i think need to re-check that today) All original tinware hoses ect still in place.

The reason i think its overheating is because my oil pressure drops after about 20-30 min of driving causing the light to come on at low revs between up to about 20000rpm.

I have a temp gauge but i dont think its mounted in an appropriate position but i couldnt find any where else for it, the sender is on the intake manifold near the spark plugs and reads about 150-200F at the point of the oil light coming on. would it be better to put it in the ehaust port?

Reply to
PauL Soames

...is it a steel pump? You may be sucking air when it gets hot due to differeing expansion rates. Was the case new, or wasd it linebored?

..Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

..................Put in an oil pressure gauge.

.................The head temp sensor belongs under the number three spark plug (driver's side & closest to the transmission). The intake runners are always being cooled by the air/gas mixture which keeps them much colder than the heads. Aftermarket 'full flow' oil pump covers are notorious for not working well. You might consider getting a new cover and a new 26mm aluminum oil pump from

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They won't sell you any lousy parts. The external oil cooler is a problem for most street appliocations. Get rid of it and go with the just the stock oil cooler at least until you can sort out what's going on. Set your 009 at 32 deg advance at 3000 rpms if you haven't already. The 044 heads run hotter than stock heads but you should be able to use them for anything but prolonged interstate style speeds until you need to teardown for a rebuild. When that time comes, get some level 3 or stock heads from Aircooled.Net. If you don't already have a Bentley manual, get one and start reading it.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

my temp guages do not show an increase in temperature when running 044 heads...i have had four sets of 044's and they have been great...(four different vw's...i was one of the first in line to order 044s when they were first introduced at CB, back around 95or so...)

------------------- Chris Perdue

"Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug!"

Remove "PANTS" to e-mail

Reply to
Chris Perdue

Reply to
ilambert

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