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Engine Building Advice

Ok.. I've read.. and read.. but I can find nothing.. Some people say you can do this.. or some people say don't because the engine would be unreliable.. Please help if you will, but keep this following in mind:

Anything built here is for fun, with use stuff.. or cheap parts.. for cheap fun..

This is not to be an engine to last 100,000 miles.. nor 20 years..

I would only like this engine to last maybe 5,000 miles of road use.

I have a 60HP 1600cc Dual port engine.. with DP heads. cost $200.

1) What would happen if I were to slap in a 74mm stroker crankshaft? Clearance it for the new crank. Would their be a great increase of HP from the stock 69mm pushing 60HP? Can anyone estimate the HP? but the question is.. could I keep everything stock lengths with the 74mm crank.. and it work? If not.. would a few shims on the Cylinders allow it to work, but also keep the HP increase? or would it need also stroker rods, and stroker P&C's?? Key words here.. cheap fun.. not a long 100,000 mile lasting engine. Something to last 5,000 miles or 50 burnouts. So the question is can it work without stroker rods and pistons and cylinders.. and would it put out more than 60HP?

2) Is it possible to take a drill with drill bit or dremel tool.. without all the fancy flycutting boring tools.. and shave metal off the

1600cc case to a 94mm bore? Would it have to be precisely perfect?? I was thinking getting a 94mm steel template to bolt to the case.. then drilling it out.. hence the bit wont penetrate the steel template, just the excess on the engine case. I am assuming the aviation form a gasket and also cylinder lip may cover any slight imperfection? Main question is.. other than paying hundreds to have a case machined.. or $300-$500 on a scat boring tool.. is their an alternative to bore the case? Any suggestions? Then doing the same to the head. Again keep in mind.. cheap fun.. not something proper that would last 100,000 miles.. Just 5,000 miles or 50 burnouts of high performance?

3) Last but not least.. is anyone on here willing to steer me in the right direction with a CHEAP case bored for 94mm, and set of heads to match? Cheap meaning less than $250.. I prefer the 1914cc because I cant afford the stroker components etc.. And later could maybe add a turbo.. I am seeking 200hp for my Bug for now. The 1914cc turnkey I am looking at from Serrano costs $3400 shipped.. I just can't afford it. He has the best price I could find too. I have this dream of oneday drag racing my bug like the people on YouTube. The wheelie is a must. I have a few of me on their now stock.. it just sucks.

Ocean Isle Beach, North Carolina

Reply to
payments338
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Reply to
Joey Tribiani

ok then.. let me ask this..I once bought a scat boring and flycutter from Paul Langlois of eVWparts.com.. It fit 3 holes on the case.. the

4th.. the mounting flange of the case was in the way of this tool being able to bolt up to the case?? did he sell me the wrong tool for a bug motor.. or was their a trick?? He wouldn't provide me instructions or advise.. of how to use.. so I sold it.

Joey Tribiani wrote:

Reply to
payments338

You and I think alike !!!

I cant see any reason why not to DIY the machining , but I am no expert and haven't biult an engine yet - just read books n stuff ! I was thinking along the lines of a router with a metal cutting bit and some kind of jig.

Rich

Reply to
tricky

What are you planning to do for carb and exhaust? Any ignition upgrades? I think it would be really difficult to get 200hp for under $2k, much less under $1k, which seems to be what you're going for.

Your transaxle and clutch probably wouldn't last 5000 miles under the k> Ok.. I've read.. and read.. but I can find nothing.. Some people say

Reply to
Rhino72

why not to dyi machining? because aircooled engines rely a lot on precision when it comes to tolerances and etc.

You might be able to do some case clearancing with a grinder but when it comes to align boring and etc save your money and take it to the machine shop. If you can explain exactly what you want to have done it should not cost arm and a leg.

Also it is very important how measurements are done, for instance you can get machine work in mm and get bearings which are measured in inches. this might not work since the tolerances are not to spec.

Ant> You and I think alike !!!

Reply to
anton

Sorry, my questions ran together.. I am not expecting to be able to get

200hp from question 1 and 2.. I was just saying on the third question my day dream of buying a bored case and heads cheap. I agree. It would be very hard to get 200hp for 2k. The turbo on the 1914cc would cost that much alone. With questions 1 and 2.. and was aiming more for 90hp.. Similiar to a sloppy built 1914cc. I was just trying to avoid the machining cost.

Can anyone point me in the direction of an internet website link where to purchase a tool that will bore for the cylinders and heads on a bug engine case? I've tried one before and it would not mount on the 4th cylinder spiggot because of the tranmission mounting flange.. I think I was ripped off. I believe maybe I was sold strictly a head fly cutter? Does anyone on here have a tool they can send me a picture of that has actually bored a 1600cc case for 94mm pistons and cylinders? Please? This is a skill I must aquire.. I have several years of life remaining to devote to this VW hobby. I have to learn how to do it myself oneday. It would be different if their were a local shop.. but their isn't any near me.. Hopefully if I learned and had the tool, I could help other people with it.

Rh> What are you planning to do for carb and exhaust? Any ignition

Reply to
payments338

If you want some serious HP, then get an adapter kit and install either a 2.2 or 2.5L 16 valve Subaru engine. A good used Subaru engine is way cheaper than rebuilding a VW engine and it would go like stink.

T> Sorry, my questions ran together.. I am not expecting to be able to get

Reply to
Anthony W

Reply to
Jim347a

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