I used to replace mine every 3 years.
At vw-resource.com he recommends replacing it every 5 years.
It's always a good precaution to replace all four sections of
rubber line about every five years.
John Connolly (Aircooled.Net) advises-
I strongly recommend cloth braided fuel hose. Every 6 months, you
should inspect it! Bend it over 180 degrees, and if it cracks or is
stiff, REPLACE IT. Leaking fuel hose is the #1 cause of those
smoldering VWs you see on the side of the road. Don't be a statistic!
could not agree more!!
Rubber products such as fuel line, have a limited shelf life too. You
can't tell how old the fuel hose was when you BOUGHT it.
I once bought cloth braided fuel hose for my 78 bus, and two years later
I started getting fuel smells. I did what John said, started bending the
fuel hose and I didn't get very far until it snapped! Nowhere near 90
I don't know if the formulation or chemical additives they use in fuel
changed at that time, and I was sold "old batch" fuel hose that was no
longer compatible. But it was a shocker. "Brand new" fuel hose dried up
to a crisp in 2 years. Insane.
You might want to concider another type of fuel line.
Ive been using parker and other Aviation fuel / oil lines lines for a
long time. On oil coler and transmissin lines on my other cars.
On my other vehicles.
There's plenty of suppliers. But theres not going to be any metric.
When I was looking for my present T3 about 20 years ago I was surprised by
how many cars I looked at did not use clamps on the fuel line. Not even on
the fuel pump right next to distributor!. This was after having been hassled
by some Govt inspector for my beetle annual inspection for having a couple
of rust spots on the headlight reflector. Idiot had his priorities
right!!!. My reliable supplier of parts though will only supply OEM cloth
covered hose. He seems to recall VW never used clamps with OEM hose. Dunno
Keeping on topic though I have had the OEM hose he supplied me with
about 7-8 years ago and it is still supple, no evidence of seepage. For
things like fuel hoses, brake lines I try to go OEM or at least German.
Cost a bit more but lasts a darn sight longer.
I,m not familiar with the VW diesels. First glance you would think high
pressure ergo must be clamps?. But if they,ve gone 10 years without a leak
it,s obviously kosher.
I seem to recall there always being clamps on my air cooled stuff dating
from the 60,s. Wonder if it was a VW Aust measure for the hotter
climate????. Or just evidence of more overly cautious old sods.
The factory did not use clamps in the fuel lines. They used the
proper 5.5mm fuel lines. A diameter that is no longer available, and the
closest one being 6mm, fits too loose. So.... clamp them. And not with
those "garden hose" type clamps, but proper fuel line clamps that leave
Often seen also, not a myth at all.
I've had several original VWs from 60's and none of them have had clamps on
fuel lines until I installed them. Newer ones had partial clamping, not all
You'd have to have factory advertisements showing clamps to convince me that
factory used them and they magically have vanished from all I've had/repaired.
pinched bandclamps came on the pressure side of the fuel pump, and they are
visible in shots from factory owner's manuals, if you wish to check it
out... some years have clearer shots than others... it is, indeed, a myth
that vw did not use hoseclamps on fuel lines...
The only fuel hose for my '73 Beetle that I have been satisfied with
in the past 18 years is what I get from CB Performance.
The hose I got from other vendors had a black braided cloth around
"How Often Do You Replace the Rubber Fuel Hose?"
I replace it every time there is an engine fire.
Just like when forestry experts found out that allowing lightning caused
fires to burn is healthier for the forest in the long run, so should VW
fires be allowed to run their course. Afterward, the rebuilt vehicle is
better than the old one. That is why I use genuine NOS fuel line without
clamps. I also have a see-through glass fuel filter that is suspended
between the fuel pump and the carb and allowed to swing free. I don't
have a fire extinguisher on board. Just by 2’. Don't assume that I'm an
expert just because I'm posting here.
The filter is made of fine mesh and is reusable after cleaning it. The
ends unscrew with a wrench. O-rings provide the seal. This is the second
one I've had. While I was disassembling the first one in a kneeling
position the glass cylinder fell out of my hand onto the concrete and
broke quite easily in a drop of less than two feet.
I don't actually have it hanging above the case. I molded some hard
setting clay to fit around it as it rests on the case. And it's
positioned in the line leading into the fuel pump, not the line between
the pump and the carb.
By the way, I notice you always use a comma as an apostrophe. Is that
how Aussie's are taught to do it? In Europe they use a comma as a
decimal instead of a period.
My apologies Randall, I was just being a silly bu...er . A poor attempt at
humour!. I actually had one of those type on my 1300 Beetle back in 67 and
I,d buy another of that type of filter if I could get one..These days
though they are all those nasty little moulded plastic things. That was
beautiful little car. I commuted 160 miles a day for about 4 years (
nearly killed myself on the first day with its evil handling) , when I sold
her the compression was so low when ignition was turned off the engine spun
for 3-4 seconds. Apart from a seized front right slave cylinder it never
missed a beat.
Which is another thing. On all my VW,s the right front slave
cylinder/caliper has caused issues. Seizing mainly, purely coincidence? Cant
think of any other reason.
It's a little known fact that in Australia, South Africa, Japan, India,
the British Isles, and just about everywhere that the British left their
stamp -- the right front wheel cylinder on every vehicle will seize
before the left one will. In the US, Canada, most of Europe, and Latin
America -- the left front wheel cylinder will be the first to seize. In
China both wheel cylinders seize at the same rate, probably due to poor
the side of the vehicle that sees the curb or ditch side, gets less dirt
thrown around. The side that sees oncoming traffic gets sprayed more and
sees more dirt, water, salt(winter) and stuff that's thrown up by
oncoming traffic. Just a thought...
I'm not going to agree. The left side gets tore up more in the US. As the
driver misses everything on the right side. Pot holes , mud , everything.
And if you go off there edge of the road. Its the right side. All my cars
get hammered on the right side first. Also the curb side gets sprayed more
as the slush is on the curb side , not in the middle . US roads at least.
drain to the curb well . They're high in the middle. But the puddles and
crap are at the curb.
Just for interest went and dragged out all my manuals. Clymer manages to
avoid all photos of a connected carby.
"Scientific Publications" published Service Manuals in Australia for
all car brands. Were a bit rudimentary. For the early T3 carbs ( centrally
located) there was definitely no clamps. For all twin carburetted T3,s there
is definitely clamps on all fuel connections. The crimp type that leaves a
small non crimped region!.
For Beetles was a bit indistinct but almost certainly not! You could argue
though that if that was the engine they stripped down to do the manual it
might be all just sitting together and not functional.
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