How often do you change your transmission fluid?

You can drain about 1/3 of the fluid -- the other remains in the torque converter so just change again at next (or one after) oil change. Cost for fluid is mabe $8 --- far cheaper than a $150 flush! Directions on how to check level are in the owners manual.

The tranny pan has a drain plug, and there are drain and fill plugs for the differential. Should take about 4-5 qts. Do both 12-15,000 miles depending on your driving condition. I'd recommend changing the strainer 24-30K miles and wiping clean the pan. The Fram ATF kit with a cork rubber gasket is nice for about $20. BTW, the 90 may have a more frequent strainer change schedule, don't know.

Here is an AutoZone page on the tranny. But cuoldn't find info on fluid change.

Joe wrote:

Joe wrote:

=============================== Power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant along with the engine oil, transmssion and differential should be changed regularly. The car is not "doomed" if the transmission fluid has not been changed for a couple of years, although worn "burned" fluid is the number one cause for failure of automatic transmisssions. I use synthetic fluids. The differential fluid seems to hold up quite well. Would suggest changing it when the timing belt is changed. The main problem is that people either forget to change it at all, or unintentionally drain it thinking they're draining the transmission and then neglect to fill it which will cause major damage quickly. First time I drained the differential fluid after purchasing the car used it came out looking like chocolate milk. The correct color is light red. After filling with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF I noticed an immediate increase in power. Not a staggering change but definitely noticeable. Actually the prior owner supplied documentation showing the differential had been changed and they were billed for the fluid installed - but to me, looked like it had not been changed for the life of the car. Power steering, you can judge by appearance vs. new. Can make the steering rack and pump last longer which are both expensive parts - like around $1200 for the rack. Fresh fliuid can help the seals last longer, so for the slight cost of fluid I use a battery bulb to drain the fluid at oil change intervals. Brake fluid, you may not notice any difference, but it will extend the life of the intermal brake components - wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder by removing water absorbed from the atmosphere over time which can create rust and under hard braking even cause the brakes to fail to work properly from boiling fluid. Lots of people run the brake fluid until it is postively black and the brakes still work though. When new the brake fluid is light amber color. For coolant you should use only Toyota brand coolant and distilled water to best protect the inside of the engine from corrosion and deposit buildup as well as preserving the cooling capacity. For the transmission, make sure the final check of the fluid level is done after driving at least ten miles and the transmission is fully at operating temperature. A common error is to fill the fluid full, then when it heats and expands it is actually over full. I just change the transmission fluid when I change the engine oil, then pour into empty oil bottles with ounce markings and replace exactly the same amount drained. If you do your own service and allow the transaxle to drain over night, almost another quart will drain out.

For power steering fluid, I used to use the turkey baster method, but then I tried this and I've had good luck with this method:

Message 7 or so: "You want to raise the front end, disconnect and plug the return nipple in the reservoir, and run the return line through clear vinyl tubing into a bucket. Then, with engine off, turn the steering wheel fully left and right as you add clean fluid, until the fluid exiting through the vinyl looks clean. Under a quart does the job, which is very safe and rewarding. "

Michael