I may Have Made a Mistake

When I was putting my bug back togather I took someones advice from here about putting the oil cooler in front of the fan intake. Well I did and the other day while I was driving around the oil temp went up over 250 deg. I have tried and the most that I can drive out of town is 10 mi's before it climbs up there again. To remove the cppler now I will have to pull the engine again and being disabled I really don't want to do that except as a lsat resort. So can anyone tell me if there is anything else that I can try to cool this thing down. I would like to be able to go more the 10 mi's at a time. By the way all of the tin is on the engine.

Reply to
Packrat46
Loading thread data ...

The cooler is just sitting in front of the intake? If so, a lot of air is just going around it.

When it's mounted in the usual place, high pressure air flow from the fan is *forced* to go thru the fins of the cooler. I can't think of any advantage to having it in the fan intake, unless the thinking is that twice as much air will go thru it.

If you did manage to block off flow around the cooler so all incoming air *had* to go thru the cooler, I bet the cylinders would not get enough air flow for proper cooling.

My $.02

Speedy Jim

formatting link

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Reply to
Packrat46

The air will take the easiest way into the fan it can find, and that will be the 1/3 that is uncovered.

The "usual" place is *inside* the fan shroud. (I know that you already know that:-)

Maybe someone else will be on here who's more familiar with aux cooler setups but I feel it's going to be a headache for you. Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Reply to
Packrat46

Sounds to me that you have an EXTRA oil cooler in there? Is the original still in it's place?

What are the engine specs?

Placing any kind of cooler infront of the fan intake, is a BIG mistake, and I doubt anyone from this newsgroup would recommend it. It's been covered countless times. Reason: you are only heating the cooling air, thereby forcing the engine to overheat faster.

If you still have the original cooler in it's place inside the shroud and operational, I recommend that you remove the external cooler and route the oil the normal way, or take advantage of the now existing fittings and lines by installing a filter. (If you don't have one already). At the very least, place the cooler somewhere outside of the engine bay. It's only heating the much neded fresh, cool cooling air, before it goes into the cooling system. You MAY cool the oil inside the oil cooler a little once it gets there, but the rest of the engine will run hotter because it's deprived of cool air. That also makes the oil that is still inside the engine, HOTTER. None of it makes any sense.

99% of the external oil coolers were installed "because someone told me to" or because the builder saw them advertised or pictured in a magazine, and bought the marketing hype. 99% of the engines that have them, don't need them. In fact it causes more HARM than good, in most cases.

An external cooler located in a suitable place (OUTSIDE of the engine compartment) is justified in RACING, and in very hot climates. Where are you located?

Jan

Packrat46 wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

First off yes the reason that I put it on is that I live in Tx. and it can get up over 100 deg. some days. I installed the adpeter in place of the original oil cooler and also have an oil filter as well. I just hate the thought of pulling the engine now that I seem to have all of the bug's out of it and have all of the oil leaks fixed.

Reply to
Packrat46

Reply to
kerfoker

To be able to remove the fan shroud, you have to remove the engine lid and it's hinge posts too. The pain of re-aligning the lid and hinges is much greater than the pain of reinstalling the engine. In my opinion :)

Jan

kerfoker wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

In general, probably true.

However, the guy who started the thread said he was "disabled." If he's speaking of the sort of disabled where one has limited, or no, use of his legs, then the hood bit might be easier since it could be done mostly or entirely from a seated position near the engine compartment.

- Bill

Reply to
William J. Leary Jr.

Jan,

Youre kidding ? I would rather pull of the deck lid and work on my motor than pull the motor out anytime! Remove the deck lid and hinge points on the body, remove the fan belt, and then the carb. Now the generator/alternator and, throttle cable and guide tube, then the shroud.

HTH, Mike

Reply to
Mike West

Phillip,

Do you live near Houston? I could come over and give you some help.

Mike West/ chopped 66

Reply to
Mike West

i can drop the engine faster than i can pull the decklid...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Reply to
kerfoker

WOW, Nothing like pre-heating the cooling air. I am sorry my friend, but it must be moved.

Joe

Reply to
<josephgliebe

Good advice Jan, if original is in place, get rid of the pre-heat source

Joe

Reply to
<josephgliebe

Takes all of 15 minutes to pull the engine... THEN you have free access to everything on it. Another 15-20 to put it back in.

Takes more than 15 minutes to align the damn hinges. :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

I live in TX and have all the stock cooling tin. I don't have overheating problems. Now, since my car has no A/C I DO drive in before 6 AM and try to leave work by 15:30 - that way I don't get caught in traffic jams. I also do this because if a Ford Excretion/Expedition/Excursion hit my car on the expressway it would be a squashed bug... but the goo oozing from the wreckage would be MY remains, but that of an insect.

Reply to
KWW

unless the car has been bumped a bit... then it might be tricky getting the engine in/out with the tin on... especially for the older models (early '60s).

Reply to
KWW

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.