Leaking rear axle seal on 65 bug

I have a 1973 Beetle with the I.R.S. transaxle. I don=92t know the answer to your question, but these links might help:

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Tried to

Cip lists the spacers:

Often, the O-ring fails during installation; worth checking too.

Speedy Jim

Your axles could have stretched so that the nut stops against the end of the threads before reaching proper torque. The drums themselves could also have compressed. You also have to be very careful when installing new seal kits, easy to catch the o-rings etc. Have you got a proper diagram shoving the correct location of the o-rings? It is a long time since I did this on my -56 T1 but I do remember having to go through several manuals before I found a proper diagram. I also recollect never getting on side to seal.. Made for an interesting ride.

J.

If the spacer is pitted it is very likely that it is tearing up the lip on the seal as soon as you start driving. What did the seal you removed look like?

Anyway, a new spacer is $13 at the bughaus.

Chris

Thanks EVERYONE-- Yes I also looked thru several diagrams to make sure I had everything right-- I actually just replced the transmission- (had the leaking before this too)- and even before I coudl get it on the ground- it was leaking (still on jack stands now) I have had the o-rings mess us on me in the past- this one leaked so quick - that it could be an o-ring-- THANKS for the link to the spacer-- I kept trying to find one- I also wondered about the spacer orientation itself-- there is a beveled side that bevels inward- I'm assuming this goes inward to bearing..?

Again- Thanks everyone.

but can't seem to- oil keeps

Use a GL-4 gear oil.

GL-5 will corrode.

He mentions the use of Slick 50.

I have read a lot of opinions that say it does not do what it claims.

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We STRONGLY recommend this gear oil for VW transmissions. Does not include the corrosive additives that GL-5 oils have (NEVER use these). We only carry the top of the line Synthetic gear lube, and this IS compatible with Limited Slip differentials! EASY shifting when it's very cold out (you don't have to warm up first), and superior protection and easy shifting. Good for 20K miles too!

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Bevel on the outer diameter of the spacer faces out. That's so that the oil seal can slide over it.

The inner diameter has a recess on the other end of the spacer; that accepts the O-ring. It's anathema, but I give the O-ring a light coating of sealant first. That lubes it as the spacer seats and also helps seal.

Speedy Jim

Also take a close look att the large washer the small o-ring seals against.

J.

What kind of sealant would you suggest- I've always thought it was somehow coming thru this area and thru middle of spacer.. Thanks

Silicone caulk, RTV.

BTW, the area has to be clean and dry of oil residue.

Jim

I was chasing a leaky brake , and found the large O ring out of place. when I drop my spring plates I'm going in and replace seals also.That trike is scarey with wet stoppers,the front wheel skips in suicide stops. I all ready had a stroke and totalled the wives PT Cruiser last summer,I don't need any more excitement.

Jerry

Does it "need" front brakes? Don't you have a hand brake for the front and a foot pedal for the rear, or how is that trike setup? Or maybe an adjustable proportioning brake valve.

68 honda 18" front wheel. Problem is I can lift front end off the ground with one hand and in third gear ( alot on fun ). I'm thinking of adding some weight under front floor pan. This thing isn't all that heavy.The original engine was a 339 cc with the 1500 it is a little faster !! I have got it to 103 mph. but the Cop gave me 55 in a 35 on the ticket But it was worth the money Jerry