Oily Subject

I was reading some information on the Web about motor oil. It claimed that I should use 30W non-detergent oil. Seems that detergents have odd cooling properties. I am driving a 59 VW bug with a 36HP engine. Please recommendation.

Reply to
Anthony Lopez
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The issue isn't the oil has odd cooling properties as much as all the crap the detergent oil loosens up ends up in the oil cooler....therefore giving cooling issues......not good idea....

Sneaks

Reply to
Sneaks

Man, Where is Bob Hoover when you need him? About 4 years ago I read one of his excellent sermons about motor oil. I do believe that he was a firm believer of straight 30W oil. Anyone remember that sermon? I ran 10W30 few years ago in my 74 bug... it seemed to overheat quite a bit when in stop and go traffic. I mean engine would die... had to sit on the side of the road till it cooled down enough to restart it. Was told to change it out to 30W because when a multi grade oil heats up it becomes thinner, and that VW were designed to perform with 30W. Something of that nature... Anyhow, I did change the oil to 30W and haven't had any troubles since. I run 30W in both my Beetles.

Narley Dude®

Reply to
Narley Dude®

Are you running castrol or what brand?

I have one that overheats... may try it out before rebuilding an engine.

timmy

Reply to
MN AirHead

I was told long ago that detergent oils were "death" to old engines "cause they pull all the crap and dirt out of hiding and that causes the cooler to clog and cook the engine".It made sense at the time for used cars that you weren't sure of.However if one knows detergents have been used from day 1,I don't see a problem(us old guys are still undecided about synthetics though).Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

A rule of thumb I has heard was that if the engine had an oil filter, detergent oils were OK. But if the engine did not have an oil filter, use non detergent oils. The above certainly applies to engines which have been in service for a while.

Tim

Ilambert wrote:

Reply to
The Guy

Hi .I believe a 10w-30's true"weight" is 10 and it offers the protection at high temps of a 30.Straight 30w,non detergent was the conventional wisdom back in the 60's and 70's.The thicker the oil,the more oil pressure.Pure STP works for a while on VERY sick motors(guess how I know).Just don't expect that 6V bug to start(or even turn over) on cold winter mornings.In the modern age,I've used 20w50 Castrol with no problems.Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

That may have been the case with my 74 SB.

Narley Dude®

Reply to
Narley Dude®

Timmy,try changing out your oil cooler,then changing to 20w50 Castrol(oil change first) and back off a couple points of timing advance before you rebuild.Oil coolers are cheap and have a finite life.Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

Timmy, I use 30W Valoline Haven't had any troubles since, and never any troubles in my other two beetles.

Narley Dude®

Reply to
Narley Dude®

"Narley Dude®"

Narley: One such article he wrote was #7 of the TULZ series.

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Reply to
Steve

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That's a classic!

Reply to
Max Welton

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"Max Welton" wrote

This page has handy links to the Google archives of the twelve TULZ articles:

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-- Scott

Reply to
Scott H

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Yep Thats it!!! Whatever happened to Veeduber? Does he come in a post anymore?

Narley Dude®

Reply to
Narley Dude®

Thanks Steve!! That is the one I'm talking about!!! Most excellent article!!!

Narley Dude®

Reply to
Narley Dude®

.......................He posted at least a half dozen times here at RAMVA back in August but only once since then a few weeks ago.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

Not to often anymore.  He got tired of the know-it-all's.  But once in a while he will when he feels it is necessary. Jim "Narley Dude®" wrote:   Yep Thats it!!! Whatever happened to Veeduber? Does he come in a post anymore? Narley Dude®

Reply to
bugfern

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