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Re: Can of Worms, Shroud too high

Jan Anderss>

>> Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote: >> >>> The Wonderbus's cooling shroud is sitting about 1/2'' (6mm) too high. >>> It doesn't snug down against the lower bits that it is meant to nest >>> into. On examination, it is the alternator that is holding it too >>> high. This 71 bus would normally have come with a generator, I was >>> surprised to see that it does have an alternator. It is a 1776 engine. >>> I guess that alternators have a larger diameter than generators? Is >>> there a fix? A shorter pillar under the alternator? Wrap a bunch of >>> tape around the bottom of the shroud to seal it? >> >> >> 6mm? > > My error, you are right Jan, I am easily confused. 12mm is what I am > seeing. And the shroud is sitting high enough so that it really can't be > fastened to the tin well: the bolts which sit in the up-down adjust > slots on the sides can't really grab the shroud on one side.

Make sure the lower edges of the front and back parts of the shroud are positioned _inside_ the edges of the upper cylinder pieces. It find that they sometimes get edge-to-edge and the shroud doesn't go all the way down.

Max

Reply to
Max Welton
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I absolutely will check that. But from where I am sitting, even if there was zero interference, it does not appear that the shroud can drop any further because it is hung from the alternator shaft.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

The shroud won't go any lower, but the tin can be massaged to sit higher!

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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That depends. Stock alternator tower, no. But if you have an after-market tower, chances are it's a piece of junk. Every after-market tower I've ever seen -- no exceptions -- did NOT have the saddle nor the base machined. The saddle was 'as-cast' and the base had been cleaned up with a belt sander.

If you're a pretty good machinist and have lots of time on your hands you can machine an after-market tower back to spec. But it's usually faster and cheaper to simply buy the stock unit from a junky.

In addition to the alternator conversions I've done personally I've had at least two dozen total pieces of shit show up on my doorstep with complaints rangeing from throwing belts to overheating, all due to those wunnnerful after-market alternator towers that end up pointing every direction but straight up and every angle in between.

-Bob Hoover

PS - My big milling machine is an old Van Norman 1/2, which meant it could do both horizontal and vertical milling. Jig the tower as true as you can get it on the bed then make up a boring bar for the diameter of the alternator barrel. Once you have it true, flip the thing over and jig the base perpendicular to the the barrel trough using a stock tower as your blueprint. If it comes out a bit shy, add another gasket but in most cases you'll have to remove from three to 10mm (!) to return the stand to spec. - rsh

Reply to
Veeduber

Very good point about aftermarket stands. I have only dealt with one (made in taiwan or somesuch place) and the only thing I did to it was hang the cracked-all-to-hell stand on my workshop wall, next to some other trophies :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

This tower has "VW" in raised letters and the firing order is marked on the base. Saddle appears to be nicely shaped. No shims or anything under the tower. I figure this must be a stock tower.

So. Given that the combination of block, tower and alternator determine the centerline of the alternator in relation to the block, which determines how high the shroud sits in relation to the lower tin, it is the tin into which the shroud is mounted that needs to be raised, as Jan mentioned.

Bit by bit, the worms are being teased back into their nice, warm can.

Up next: getting the gland nut off to replace main seal. Film at 11.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

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