Reccomendations Please: new motor for 1961 vw beetle

One key word: BIGGER :)

gives you great driveability and all around good power increase throughout the rpm range.

The other approach is to use a hotter cam (more duration and lift). This in a nutshell lets the engine make more power, but it will make it at higher rpms. (You have to wind it up higher to get to the power band).

And of course a combination of both is where the greatest reward is.

Look into what is CA legal for your YEAR of car. A 61 may be exempt of many annoying things that a 74 may not be.

jan

Typical 4 wheeler, "big red-neck trucks". Who's gonna deliver that new motor??

Talk to Steve hes in Calf. and would be able to give you all the info on their regulations plus build an engine to fit your needs.

Mario Vintage Werks resto

I'll probably come off sounding like a scold, but I don't mean to :-)

As you may (or not) know, the '61 swing axle is especially prone to rollover accidents. Unless it has been modified for a camber compensator, adding more power may increase the odds.

Additionally, the '61 gearbox isn't all that strong. Beefing up the engine may only result in the box's early demise.

Next, some "gotchas":

Although "converted" to 12V, was the starter and flywheel changed over? If not (as often the case), the new engine with its larger flywheel (presumed) won't fit and won't mesh with the starter. There are ways around this (grind out bellhousing/change starter and bush), but you need to plan on the work.

The gearbox uses the "old style" throwout bearing. Whatever pressure plate is used on the new engine must match. That's not a big deal but it must be dealt with before sliding the new engine in place.

You can read more about the 6V/12V Conversion issues on my web site:

Speedy Jim

Thank you Mario.

This is the assistance I was looking for. There are alot of engine builders out there... and weeding thru them seems daunting.

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Thank you Jim

I have been reviewing all the receipts on the car

-camber modifications were completed

-gearbox was not exchanged

-flywheel and starter were exchanged

S> envirogisgirl wrote:

See if you can find a reputable VW shop in your area. You need to identify what you have and what will fit. Don't even think of mail order complete engines unless maybe it's a VW factory engine like;

Your post suggests you will need something reliable so don't even think about "big cams", dual carbs, etc., unless you really know what you're doing and have an unlimited budget.

A stock 1600DP with factory carburation, exhaust, cooling and tuned decently would be just the ticket. But even that will add up in the $$$ dept. You need good advice from a good VW shop who will have to stand behind what they do. Trouble is, finding one...

Raymond Lowe kirjoitti:

Get their engine specs in detail, and post them here, and we will tell you if it makes any sense.... Only after that make your decision.

Jan

I agree....

Think about it this way... If you mail order one or buy one off the internet fine you might get a better price... maybe. but you might be getting an engine that was "built in bulk" so to speak. Companies that build many engines and dont pay real close attention to the details, or well - ok thats good enough. It might give years of good service or it may not. If it does crap out not what you gonna do. pull it out and ship it back? thats expensive. If you have a reputable local guy build you one then if there is problems you take it back to him and deal with him face to face, and actually see what went wrong.

Buying a complete "new" engine isnt cheap!!!!! even the long block from aircooled.net is around $1600 but if you add all your old parts , ok, its cheaper. But are all your old parts servicable and will they all fit on the new block? A complete turn key motor its very easy to go way over $2k. All depending on what you want. My "new" 1600 DP engine.... complete turn-key ran about $2500... built by a local guy. I saw it and saw it run before I paid for it, and I picked it up and drove home.

This is what I got for my $$$

Lots of choices out there... dont get screwed over by some supposed experienced VW mechanics.

vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw dragenwagen

1966 Type I "Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw

Motor blew ? Got a better description of what happened ? Several of us here have big red-neck trucks.

Randy

61 is exempt you can pretty much do whatever you want.

Ant> envirogisgirl wrote:

May have taken 13 years( not the 8 I thought) however my bug is running great the last 4 months w a 2332 from Chico racing, & a transmission from Transworks.