RUSTY GAS-TANK Problem

Removing the gas tank off a bus is a major operation. Engine has to come out.

I would suggest something like this:

Run a garden hose into the tank after you have drained it. Then run another hose, one of a boat bilge pump. The garden hose needs to feed the tank at quite a good force, to keep the heavy crud on the move, suspended in the water. The bilge pump would then suck it all out, while the garden hose is still feeding more water in.

When it's done, you can maybe try to use some sort of gas tank rust treatment. At the very least, fill her up to the brim and add a quart of de-icer in it. (alcohol). The alcohol miz\xes with both water and gasoline, and thus makes the water mix with gasoline too... sort of. Water doesn't naturally mix with gasoline so it will be hard to get it out otherwise.

Bear in mind that even after hours of flushing with water, the tank will still have gasoline fumes in it when empty. So no smoking....

Jan

...ummm...nope. Not sure how, but it can be removed without droppping the engine. I know this because I have met a very determined person who swapped tanks on a 77 westy wityhout dropping engine. I personallyt would drop the engine down if not out...but hey...if you

...gareth

pull the engine, check for bad mounts, yank the tank, replace ALL fuel lines, clean up the engine bay while it is empty -- look for stuff to fix and repair, degrease, mebbe paint, add a switchable light for nite time engine repair emergencies-- don't forget a fuse, check the engine compartment seal, paint rust converter under the battery -- it will need it, etc, etc.

bite the bullet, pull the engine and spend some "quality" time in there while the engine bay is empty.

oh, and clean off any electrical contacts.

Here's something you might consider while it's out:

I don't get it.

"Note: Not for tanks using alcohol-enriched fuel. One quart can will repair one auto gas tank. Alcohol-Resistant Gas Tank Sealer. Unaffected by alcohol additives or alcohol-enriched fuel."

So is it or isn't it for alcohol-enriched fuel tanks?

Does the POR-15 company make something like this?

To drop the engine sounds like a total nightmare to me. I'm just NOT set up for it. If there's ANY way I can get the tank out without this I will. I've even thought of putting a smaller 'auxilary' tank in the back of the bus and simply discontinuing use of the rusted out tank. Someone today on another board said to slap a big-ass magnet on the bottom of the tank .. like one off of a LARGE speaker. Said it did the trick for him! And, indeed, I went out and dropped a little magnet into the chunky dust that came out of my fuel line/filter and every bit of it DID stick to the magnet!!! Any other further thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated.

Aaron

You ought pull the tank and use this kit from Aircooled.net or get a truck full of filters.

Price: $ 54.95 Part #: POR0022 This will also seal holes the size of a dime! Contains all the stuff you need to clean, prep, and seal your gnarly old fuel tank. This is NOT a simple coating (like others) that is sloshed around, sticking to all the gum, sludge, and varnish in there also. Includes Tank Clean, Metal-Ready, and U.S. Standard Tank Sealer to seal the tank. Also includes Fuel Preservative & Stabilizer to keep you out of trouble for a while too!

What an excellent idea!

Tie a string around the magnet and dip it in the tank, then pull it out.. with luck you will catch some of the crud and be able to lift it out. Then secure the big magnet at the bottom of the tank somewhere, just NOT immediately next to the outlet.

Jan

Aar>