Weak Semiphores - are they still good?

I have a 55 oval ragtop with semaphores. The design is very simple. An electromagnet (when energized) pulls a metal rod down the center of the magnet winding.. The rod is hinged to the semaphore which then opens out. When the turn lever is returned to neutral (it is not self cancelling) the electromagnet deenergizes and a spring pulls the arm in (and the rod up). There is a small metal tab which releases the entire semaphore unit for service and repair. I cannot be sure but I think that some light machine oil judiciously applied to the rod where it enters the magnet windings may solve the problem. Another possibility is corrosion at the hinge points for the lighted arm.

Howard

Seen it. Charging system not in perfect condition, battery not in perfect condition, and check the fuses and wire terminals everywhere too.

If nothing else helps, the semaphonre electro magnets can be rewound, even to make them work on 12V. The windings may be damaged or corroded somehow.

Jan

Thanks so much!, I'll check out the things that are mentioned;, and post back. Wonder who rewinds semiphores - if that is needed. I'm guessing it is a specialty as it appears to be a tight winding. Only have seen a pic or two of the "internals" of semiphores - so maybe I'll have to wait and see up close about the windings & figure things out.

Matt S.

Not much can damage the windings it's just a coil. If not a mechanical problem, if both sides slow check common wiring and grounds. I don't know the circuit but if you could disconnect one and connect directly to a 6v battery you might find out that it works great and then you would find out that 6 volt systems create alot of problems due to corroded or bad connections- esp in bug where there is alot of wire from battery to switch to those semaphores. As suggested a bad connection would cause twice the problems on a 6v system as a 12v system, and you got a old car. I would go thru every connection on the car and check it is clean and tight and avoid the 12v conversion (purist). If you need 12v for tunes get a 6-12v converter just for that.

Got a voltmeter? With signal on measure from batt+ to sem coil batt connection. Then batt- to sem coil ground connection. In both cases 0 voltage drop ideal, but expect some. Work your way back to the battery to find where change in voltage drop is largest and you just passed the bad connection.

Those copper connections are probly loose or tarnished and I don't know how to clean them if I could go back 30 years when I had my 1960 I would try tarn-x on them then rinse off but don't know if that's good idea or not. I had some problems on fuse block. I also couldn't get it to start very well so I wired a 1 1/2 volt dry cell battery in glove box with a DPDT switch to give me 7 1/2 volts just to the ignition coil when I started it then switched it back to 6v after it started. Started right up every time- coil didn't use much juice and battery lasted longer than car. Dave

There are trashed,,,! I say, cut out the pillars all together, and replace them with smooth pillars from another bug.

Then send me the *bad* ones with the semaphores in them, so i can properly dispose of them for you

;-)

vwluvrs

Ok, thanks I'll get my sawzall and - HEY no! - no waaay!

you're a baaaad person!

Thanks anyway

Matt S.

Dave, thanks so much for the tips, I'll definitely give it a try. Great suggestions I'm a purist too, want to keep this original. Matt S.