Yanking Mallory Dizzy Rotor

Okay, the Mallory rotor - it pulls off, right? I gave it a tug but it doesn't move with rasonable effort. Do I just pull harder? I'm afraid to break something.

(I am installing grey springs)

In exchange, a litle info I have regarding the correct coil ballast resistor issue. Correct me if I'm wrong. Place an ohm meter across the coil's +,- and if it reads 3 to 4 ohms, it has an internal ballast. If it has no such resistance, then test the ignition to the + and _ground_. If it reads less than 8 volts, the ballast resistor is somewhere in the ignition circuit (unlikely with most of our setups.)

Back to the issue - just yank harder?

(Shades of yesteryear and Chrysler's ballast resistors - I still have one, a big-ass thing in a ceramic block. Just in case. :))

Reply to
one_of_many
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Is it the optical picup unit? If yes, the rotor is a bit firm and it won't come off easilly the first few times. The rotor is attached to the optical disk and they are removed together. Grab the optical disk with your fingers from the edge in four places (eg.

12, 3, 6, 9 'oclock) and apply force outwards evenly. You may have to pull hard. Be carefull to apply the force evenlly or you might break or bend something. Do not use any tool for leverage, just your fingers.

If you have a stock coil, you don't need a ballast resistor, if you have a high performance or other replacement coil, you have to check (check anyway just to be sure). Disconect all terminals of the coil and check with an Ohm meter. Should be arround 3-4 Ohms. It would be better (for a more safe measurement) to measure the current through the coil when the ignition is turned on and the (-) terminal of the coil is connected to the ground through an Amp meter (wire to distributor disconnected). The current should be 3-4 Amps. If it is more, then use a ballast resistor.

Bill, '67 bug.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

That worked, Bill. Thanks.

Reply to
one_of_many

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