1986 240 DL - While driving, engine shut off ,now won't start.

A few quick checks. There are about a dozen separate items that will prevent your auto from starting and display the symptoms you described.

Are you out of gas?

Roll the fuses in the fuse panel. This cleans and reconnects them since the different metals of the fuse and panel like to corrode and insulate themselves. Usually evident after a long period of hummid and rainy weather.

Remove and clean the 25 amp main system fuse located on the left fender under the hood. One of the wires from the battery leads to this spade type fuse clipped to the rail on the fender. Same problem as the other fuses with hunidity.

Have your radio off. When you turn the key to ON, there should be a click heard from the passenger side foot well area. When you turn the key to start, there should be a second click. The first click is the fuel system control relay, the second is the fuel pump portion of the relay closing. Both these clicks are necessary for the auto to run.

Sometimes the relay just fails and needs replacement. Other times when the fuel pump portion does not get a signal from a sensor in the distributor, the fuel pumps will not turn on and no fuel pumped means no start.

To fully diagnose, you need a Bentley Manual or Volvo Service Manual. The Haynes or Chiltons fall way short of clarity and full systemm diagnoses capability. It could be anything from a wire from the ignition switch to a sensor for the fuel or ignition system failing. Just do not replace the fuel system control module. This rarely fails and is replaced by garages who do not know better or wish to make a lot of money quick.

Duane

Check what Duane said. If you can hear the fuel pump running under the car, it could be the bellows hose on the in tank pump. They rot and with less than a half tank of gas the in tank pump cannot supply the main pump. It's very common on older 240's.

"Duane Hoberg" wrote in news:LN2oc.1153$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com:

Thanks for the info Duane, I'm gonna try some tests tonight, and I'm gonna get my hands on a manual.

That is the one that just jailed me today. It started as an intermittent. The spade connections on the fuse were very corroded. It is a good idea to disconnect the battery ground if you are going to be taking a close look at that fuse holder. One end of it goes directly to the battery.

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs

"Duane Hoberg" wrote in news:LN2oc.1153$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com:

I rolled the fuses, and checked the 25 amp fuse under the hood, still no luck. I did'nt hear the first click from the passenger side footwell area, nor the second click mentioned.

How difficult, or easy could this be to fix myself?

Any idea how much somthing like the problem i explained should cost to fix at a garage?

Since the fuses are OK, and no click from the first relay, I'd take a wild guess and say get a system/fuel relay and install it.

You are lucky that at this time, I have just finished finding the cause of my system fuse (25A under hood) blowing. Caused the same no start condition you describe. That means the info form the troubleshootiung I have done is fresh in my mind.

If you can use a test light or VoltOhmMeter, there is one test before replacing the relay.

If you take the knee bolster from under the passenger side dash, you will see some wires that drape accross the bottom of the glove box. The set you are looking for is three wires, a thick red with yellow stripe, a red wire and a red with black stripe. This set comes out of the top of the passenger side foot well into a white connector. Separate this connector and check for 12 volts to ground with the ignition switch on from the red with black stripe wire that comes from the left side of the car. If there is 12 volts,the relay is most likely bad. If no power, the ignition switch has a problem.

The relay is a white plastic box clipped or laying against the firewall. This rectangular box about one by two by two inches controls the fuel pumps and injectors. They have a habit of failing at the worst time.

Duane

Getting this fixed at a garage can cost you from the cost of the relay ($60) plus about $50 labor to so much it might make you want to not fix the auto. Depends upon the garage and the honesty and compentency of the mechanics.

Duane

My guess is the wiring harness. In my 164E's case(1975, so all the electrical "bits" were stock 240), it was a corroded battery lead. It looked good, but when the mechanic finally took the thing off, it snapped and there was only 20% of the wires still attached underneath the insulation.

If you can, replace it all with more modern stuff from a

"Duane Hoberg" wrote in news:JSwpc.3510$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com:

Thanks again Duane, I'll try the test ,and most likely end up fixing it myself. Does'nt sound too difficult (thanks to guys in this group). Wish me luck.

"Duane Hoberg" wrote in news:JSwpc.3510$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com:

My 240 is back up and running again. The fuel pump relay had burned. It was replaced, but now, While I was looking for the fuel pump relay, I saw a blue plastic case wich I thought was the relay I was looking for so I took It out, then after I put it back in, the electric locks won't work and when I turn on the radio the open door bell signal goes on. I can't figure out what went wrong, although I did open the plastic case, I must have damaged it. Any ideas?