1989 240 Squeaky front suspension

You didn't mention how many miles or what the maintenance/repair in this area has been, (and I don't know the car specifically) but generally:

If this car has McPherson struts then the first likely spot are the cone bushings where the radius arm meets the front control arm. These are a wear item and should be replaced about every 80,000-100,000 miles- more often depending on the driving conditions. If you have sprayed silicone in there, then just go ahead and replace them. These are not supposed to slip. If worn and then lubed they will begin to move and very soon thereafter destroy themselves. Metal to metal contact follows and will damage the control arm.

The next likely place is the stabilizer (anti-roll bar). The mounts where the bar attaches to the frame (one on each side) is prone to squeak. Although not as likely to wear from the silicone spray there, ones it starts to squeak it is time for replacement. The links that attach the stabilizer to the control arm are the next place to check.

I mention all the above as they are well within the ability of the backyard mechanic to repair. Beyond these it gets more difficult. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

All true on a 7 series, however a 240 has none of those problems. The squeeky bedspring noise comes from the inner tie rod end. The ball end rusts and squeeks against the teflon liner inside the ball socket formed over the tie rod end. If you remove the boot from the rack and unscrew the rod end you may, with a goos bit of luck, be able to work some lubricant in between the mating surface. Unfortunately this seldom more than a temporary fix and the noisey tie rod will need to be re[;aced.

Bob

The thing that doesn't make sense to me about the tie rod ends causing this is that the noise is only when hitting a small bump, never from any sort of turning. Would't a tie rod squek manifest during a turn and NOT a bump?

Danny

Possible silly answer.

You say if you push down only 1 inch you have the noise. You should lay under the car or put it on a ramp and get someone to push down, sound a silly answer but you ears should direct you to the area where the noise is. Another option is if you think you have found the area hold it with the palm of you hand and get someone to push, the noise will travel through the palm of you hand and tell you where the noise is.

Don't let it drive you crazy, treat it as a challenge you are able to solve. Remember we have the brains at the end its only a machine.

My 240 had a bad squeak where the large bushing at the rear of the control arm was rubbing on the large washer welded to the rear of the control arm. I had to loosen the nut to get space to get lube inbetween.

Also, ipd sway bars are notorious for squeaking in the bushings between the sway bar and frame rails. These also require disassembly to lube properly.

...to do this with such limited clearance vehicles (I had a vw van, full-size Blazer and a 4wd Ford PU) drive two wheels up onto a curb with the other two still in the street- instant ramps! You can change oil or such this way, but it does give you a was to get under the car when you need to without getting out the jack and stands. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

^CAN'T

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

When changing oil on our 240's, I never need to raise the car. I expect it would be the same with 700 or 900 series cars. I lay down alongside the driver's door with my shoulder near the mud flap. I'm able to extend a wrench to loosen the drain plug, and loosen it with two fingers. I'm only medium-tall at about 5'9", so I'm sure that many other shade-tree mechanics will be able to use the same method.

I'm sure it would work just as well from the passenger side. My left eye is is much better than my right, so my method gives me a good view via my good eye.

Bruce

Randy G. wrote:

I bought a pair of ramps. With short lengths of 2" x 12" boards under the ramp I can drive the 960 up without scraping anything. Since the drain plug is at the back of the oil pan is works out fine. Probably lets me get a little more oil out than if it were level.

You can make a set for oil change purposes easily enough. SOrt of like this (not to scale): __ | | |__|_____________ | \ |_________________\______ | \ |_________________________\______ | \ |__________________________________\

Put rubber or non-skid tape on the bottom

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate