245 overheating

Hi there, my 1993 245 is overheating, the temp gauge was working erratically, so I did not know for sure if it was overheating. Bypassed the temp compensating board in the instrument cluster and started the car, put the AC on and left it on my driveway for about 10 minutes, the outside temp was about 86 degrees. The car did not overheat, and the gauge is just a hair above 9. There is no coolant consumption and no air bubbles on the coolant. The pump was replaced about 7 months ago with a new thermostat and belts. When the car is hot, I feel the fan in the engine compartment pulling air through the radiator, but when I shut the car the fan blades feel like they are spinning too easily (viscous clutch ng?). My wife took the car for a spin and noticed that the car was overheating when it was climbing hills, the temp almost reached the red zone. turning the AC off and putting the heat full blast cooled the car down. I checked the timing, and it is good. I intend to check the engine compression, remove the fan, hose the radiator from the engine compartment out, to clear any bugs, dirt etc, then temporarily bypass the thermostat and JB weld the fan, so it is always on.

Any suggestions, will be greatly appreciated.

arnold_perez13 at verizon dot com

Reply to
Arnold
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My '89 240 overheating problem turned out to be a crack in the one of the ruffles of the big black plastic tube between the air mass sensor and the intake manifold. It took a year to find after trying all the usual culprits. Once fixed, though, it never overheated again.

I recommend removing the big ruffled tube from the car and inspecting it carefully all around.

Reply to
Robert Lutwak

You might be onto something there, I ordered the throttle body gasket because there is a random misfire on idle, I am going to clean the TB, check the idle control valve and replace the flame trap. I will check it out tomorrow and will post. Thanks

Arnold

Reply to
Arnold

The viscous couplers don't have a very good life expectancy. A bad one will allow the engine to overheat at idle on a hot day, and on low speed hill climbing, but cool down rapidly (in a few minutes) once the air gets flowing through the radiator again.

Your plan sounds pretty good, but JB Welding the fan clutch may be wasted effort. I recommend replacing it, but aftermarket units are expensive enough. Genuine Volvo units are downright expensive.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

I applied JB weld to the fan clutch to have it engaged all the time, hosed the radiator from the engine compartment out, checked the hose from airflow sensor to the throttle, it did not have any leaks, replaced the flame trap, and noticed that the hose had a tear that allowed unmetered air into the engine, allowing it to run lean, and possibly over heating, but the most important thing I noticed after I shut off the engine was a low hissing sound coming from the coolant reservoir. Pressure was not being maintained due to a faulty cap, borrowed the cap from my other 240, (I noticed the system still had pressure from 3 days ago when I last ran it). Test drove the car with the AC on, outside temp about 90, and the temperature gauge was stuck at 9.

Thanks to all who helped.

I will keep an eye on the temp gauge, if it runs too cold in the winter, I will get a new fan clutch.

Arnold

Reply to
Arnold

Thanks for the feedback. The cracked cap is common enough I'm surprised none of us thought about it.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

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