Can any one enlighten me as to how you check or do this precedure as im a bit in the dark. I assume its some sort of technique in turning the ignition key on and off so many times but i could be wrong and need to buy some equipment to plug in etc.
Also is there a list of what the codes mean? Cheers n beers Steve near London.
What do you mean by flashcodes? Do you mean diagnostics testing? What year is your car? Only by supplying us with the relevant information can we help you with your problem.
All the best, Peter.
700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK).
Well the car is a 92 (J) estate and not that iv done it before but my old toyota had a facility to turn the ignition key some 10 times what ever and the ignition light would flash a certian way to tell you the problem aand then you read from a chart what the number of flashes meant and hence found the problem if any.
1-2-1, for the 240s, means a bad/missing signal from/to the Air mass Meter on the LH-2.4 and LH-3.1 fuel injection systems... BTDT!
It can be set by disconnecting the AMM when the ignition is on or the car is running, so if that is the only code posted, clear it and drive the car to see if it resets or stays at 1-1-1.
You never stated whether there were any problems with the car or you were just curious.
Oh there are problems indeed and as the car was stuttering i changed the fuel filter under the car and all was well for 2 weeks and now the problem has come back. Whats also strange is that the "Lamba sond" warning light has come on and wondered if its a problem i can sort myself rather than get ripped off taking it to volvo and it seems now to drive better since the warning light has come on ...spooky!!!
The warning light and poor running along with the 1-2-1 code would indeed point towards an AMM problem. Check the following, one at a time:
1) remove the electrical connector to the AMM. Check to see tha tthe wires are in good shape (partiucularly withoit the first 2 or 3 cm of the connector) and also tha tthe connection itself is clean. Connecting and disconnecting it a few times might help clean any oxide off.
2) remove and inspect the air tube that connects the AMM to the throttle plate. It must be sound and free from holes. Put a strong light inside and stretch the hose to check it for holes.
3) the inside of the AMM should be clean and free from crud. I have cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner, but be sure that it states, "Leaves no residue" and that it is NOT a lubricating spray!!! The AMM is very delicate and must be handled with care. Do not use compressed air!
4) there are electrical tests that can be done, but they can easily show the AMM to be good when it is not. I know from experience! Spent nearly two weeks trying to find a similar problem! Do a Google groups search for the following subjects:
save me from running around.... still having problems with my 240 Still trying to get it running right AMM - more Q's It's RUNNING!
5) after that, if the problem continues, the AMM is probably faulty. Check the breaker's for a used spare. New ones cost around $800USD here. Rebuilt ones can be had, but be sure to get a good warranty.
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