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I killed my wife's Volvo (was Fault Code Question)

Chapter 16 in "Tales of a Hamfist"

Well, it finally being warm enough to het under the hood of my wife's

1993 Volvo 245, I decided to have at the problem causing the check engine light. I checked the codes again- 3-2-2 and 1-1-3. It ran fine. I unplugged and replugged the AMM plug the requisite 10 times. Took it for a drive, it ran fine (except there is a separate issue to discuss sometime). Tried the Seras auto department for contact cleaner and dielectric grease. No go. Went home and checked the codes again. This time no "check engine" light. Still got the 3-2-2 but not the 1-1-3. So far so good.

Ah, if only I'd have left well enough alone. But I didn't. Dang.

Looking at the AMM plug again, I thought to myself, "you know, that does look a little corroded in there." So I sticks in a metal probe in the first socket to try to clean it. Unfortunately the ignition key was still in the "on" position (did I mention "hamfist?"). A little puff of smoke and some heat in the probe rewards me for my troubles. Uh-oh. I fried something. There's a bit of a fried smell inside the car, too. I don't see any blown fuses.

Now the car don't start. Turns over nice, but it don't start. And interesting to say, the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on when I turn the key to (attempt to) start the car.

So. What did I f*ck up? And how do I fix it? Or do I just tow it over to my usual mechanic (who is fortunately four blocks away) and let someone who knows WTF they are doing take care of it?

D'oh! My wife is not pleased with Tim, o no, precious, not at all pleased.

Reply to
Tim McNamara
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My guess is you blew up the ECU. It's in the right-hand side footwell behind the panel just in front of the door. It's a silver box that says JetTronic on it, pull it out and sniff it, if it smells like burning electronics you found the problem. At that point you can start calling junkyards and try to locate a replacement, it needs to be the same version so I think '90-'93 240 or 740 of around the same year. Someone else can confirm that part though as it's newer than anything I have.

Reply to
James Sweet

I agree with James - likely to be the ECU. Expect to pay about $100 US for a replacement with a 30 day warranty at a they-pull-it wrecking yard. If it works 30 days it should work forever.

However, if the Check Engine light doesn't come on when you first turn the ignition switch to the "run" position (that sounds like what you are saying) I'd investigate whether the ECU is getting power. I suspect you have carefully checked the fuses, but the power may come from a fuse that is not in the fuse block. Anybody with a 240 diagram help poor Tim out with that part?

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

James and Michael-

Thank you so much for your nearly instantaneous responses. I went out to the car and pulled the kick panel to look at the ECU. It smelled like... nothing. Huh.

So then I looked at the fuse block again, as per Michael's suggestion. Every fuse was fine. Huh. Then I noticed at the bottom of the fuse cover panel it said something about four other fuses- A/C, ignition, main and something else. That jogged my memory and I recalled that my wife's car has a block of fuses next to the battery. I looked in there and the first two fuses were fine, but the main (30A) was blown. Aha! I pulled the other ones to check them, and found that the A/C fuse and the one next to it were fine, but the ignition (60A) was charred at the base. I replaced the ignition and the main fuses and the car starts. My wife is happy with me again. Whew! Let's hear it for the gal or guy that invented the fuse.

None of this has solved the 3-2-2 code that started all this, but the "Check Engine" light now comes up as it should when starting and then goes off as it should. How big a deal is the AMM burnoff? Of course, I forgot to buy contact cleaner and dielectric grease when I was at the auto parts store buying fuses. D'oh! A hamfist *and* forgetful!

Thanks again. This newsgroup rocks.

Reply to
Tim McNamara

If I remember I will bring the code book home & enlighten you to what

322 exactly is & how to correct this code Glenn K Volvo Certified Technician ASE Certified Technician
Reply to
Glenn

3-2-2 is the AMM burnoff code, indicating that the wire in the AMM isn't being heated after the engine is shut off.

Any help is appreciated!

Reply to
Tim McNamara

The most likely thing is that the AMM has failed. Often the thermostat in the air filter box which controls the heated input from the little "stove" above the exhaust manifold fails in the hot position. Then the AMM is ruined by always being fed hot air, and fuel economy suffers as well.

John

Reply to
John Horner

That's certainly a possibility. The explanations I have found for the

3-2-2 code includes several possibilities, such as a broken wire in the AMM wiring harness. The AMM is expensive but easy to replace. The wiring harness is cheaper but harder to replace. Kind of a trade-off.

I have not investigated the airbox thermostat yet, but I know it's at least two years old- since that's how long she has owned the car- but it may well be 13 years old. It's been too cold to conveniently work on the car. I should probably replace it just on general principle.

Thus far the check engine light remains off after clearing the two codes (3-2-2 and 1-1-3). Driveability remains fine.

Reply to
Tim McNamara

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