Odometer gear...'94 850

Ron wrote in news:38i791lm0delhs4tfkbplppl2gk953mj41@

4ax.com:

I just changed it on my 95, and if I can blunder through it, I suspect most anyone can. I removed the entire dash top, a bit more time but well worth. Here are the notes I collected before I started -- I didn't have a Haynes manual, just googled and asked here. Good luck!

1. Remove the entire dash top. It takes about 20 minutes longer, but saves a huge amount of struggle and potential damage compared to the alternative of prying up the left end of the dash and forcing the panel out through a tiny gap:
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   the two green connectors and the hose (The hose L-connectorpulls off with a bit of twisting)NOTE: This requires disconnecting the airbag, Disconnect battery andfollow proper procedures for handling this explosive device)
2. Remove these screws and the nut around the boost gauge fitting.
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3. Remove the front housing. You can then gently pry off the dial faceplate using a flat stick of wood It's a tight friction fit, with plastic guides and the contact pins. There are no "hooks"
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   odoometer just lifts out. Remove the reset pluger to avoidbreaking it.

1. Two screws removes the motor from the right side, revealing the broken gear:
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1. Install the gear you got from odometergears.com before starting this process. The one in back was cast in a flexible mold, and was unusable, I waited until he got his molding machine fixed, and sent me the one of the left. Still not perfect, but it works. If I had to do it again, I'd add a thin washer behind it to replace the raised boss on the original (amber) gear.
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   Put it all back together. The airbag bolts above the glovebox have a specific torque requirement.

If you think you might have to drive the car with the dash off, get a

2.5 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor and stick it's leads in the airbag cable pin holes. This will make the controller think the detonator is still connected so it won't generate an airbag fault. Tape it up to keep it from shorting to the chassis. I drove mine this way for two weeks while waiting for the new gear. Also, keep track of what screws go where.

The torque is 5.2 ft-lbs. The removal pages form the SRS service manual are here:

Ron wrote in news:38i791lm0delhs4tfkbplppl2gk953mj41@

4ax.com:

and one more thing I forgot -- most of the screws holding things together are T-25 and T-10's, but there a few smaller ones that I think are T-8's on the instruments cluster.

I took some photos when I did mine: Yep.. And, if anyone wants to see some photos:

First, after a big struggle getting the cluster out while bending the right half of the dash up, I removed the glovebox, a few more screws, the right speaker, and the airbag calbe and bolts. then lifted the whole dash out. A 2.2 ohm resistor in the airbag connector keeps the controller from posting an ignitor fault:

Back of the cluster. To get the front window section off, remove the screws indicated, as well as the nut around the boost gauge stem. Front view. The dial plate is clear acrylic, about 1/4" thick, Just pry it offm working around the edge. It unplugs from the board in back Open view: The pins on the instrument actuators plug into the board. Reassembly involves pusing the panel back on, taking care to avoid fingerprints on the flat black surface. The odometer is, located by a couple of pins in holes. A 2-wire connector links it's motor to the board. Just lift out and unplug.

I removed the motor from the odometer's right side and found this:

Also, the location of the screws and bolts for the dash top:

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