V70 D5 Idle RPM

Warm idle with my C70 D5 as well as my former V70 D5 (185hp) is or was at 750 RPM which is the correct value. Let it check at the dealer. They can hook the car to a diagnosis- computer and find out what is wrong.

Keep us updated

Joerg

car is in for new front discs and pads next tuesday. I'll ask them

It is just that i don trust dealers anymore after an atempted rip of buy a pug dealer in Amsterdam.

will do! thnx for the input

I feel stupid!

today i drove the car again, with the first thing to note that the

however the car is in for new front brake disks tomorow ( damn expensive) I'm not yet comfortable with changing the discs myself yet , i don't know if there is any special tools to be used nor do i have the place to do such . It is not allowed to tinker your Automobil in the streets of Amsterdam anyway. So the dealer earns 110 euro's ( ex parts) for changing the discs+ pads as he takes 1.5 hour to do such.... We'll see how he reacts to me scrutenizing the work done...! I was concieved ( like many) on the back seat of a car and born above the dealers workshop ( simca/fiat/lancia) of my parents! and i don't like aprenticeses working in my car, not for 73 euro's an hour!

so now back to the crawling when idling. I'm not reaaly used to drive automatic so i have litlle to compare with. I know this is to some extend normal, and i dont mind keeping to foot on the brake, but as it is it crawls at 1 km an hour so i guess this is within specs. However is this something that can be adjusted or is the torque converter not regulated. Also i find the gearshift somewhat slow, and again is this adjustable in the Vadis or should i jus accept this as is. Then, is there any aftermarket part to get the controls of the Geartronic to the steering wheel ( flapy pedal?) It should be a simple enough conversion as the gearlever itself is nothing more than a switch in the first place.

cheers!

Marc

The OP'ers car is a D5- therefore no IAC.

Tim .

The torque converter is running stalled when the car is stationary but in Drive. Its input torque is propoprtional to the square of input speed. Its output torque is input torque multiplied by whatever the torque ratio is at stall - probably about 2. The torque being transmitted to the wheels is multiplied further by the gearbox and final drive. If this is sufficient to overcome the static rolling resistance, the car will creep.

Aside from keeping your foot on the brake, the only ways to stop creep are either to reduce the idle speed or to select a higher gear. In practice, you probably can't do either because the idle speed is probably set by the ECU and the gearbox will probably start off in first even if you manually select a higher gear.

I've never driven anything with an automatic that wouldn't creep at idle if you let up on the brake.

Ah! creeping was the word, thank you!

Thank you for the insight, i'm just a hopelessly oldfasioned stick driver... I got a similar answer from de volvo dealer today. Thay also seem to be profesionals, got the brakes sorted, got a curtesy bicycle, and a DAMN good espresso while wating for the mechanic to come back from a test drive to see if he had done a proper job. Expensive though!