volvo just cuts off as I'm driving.. can you help me please

You need 3 things for your car to run.

1. fuel
2. spark at the correct time
3. compression

My guess is you don't have spark. Without spark, the fuel pump relay won't energize the fuel pumps. The fuel pump relay uses the same signal the tachometer uses (red-white wire) - without that the fuel pumps stay off.

So, if you don't have fuel AND spark, just adding one of them (fuel in your case) isn't going to help.

We had K-Jetronic over here - just in the 240s, and in the US, only up to 1982. (Canada up to 1984.) Just look for 240 info, in the older cars. (We had K-Jetronic V6s in both 200 and 700 up to 1986.)

Hi Mike,

I tested like you described. I have light on both sides, but while cranking no flashing on the side of the coil with white wire. The other unchanged as well. I removed the cap and rotor and cleaned everything, all wires as well. I noticed some small black plastic pieces as well inside, I guess they come from the plug below with 3 wires ( Hall sensor) I think I read somewhere that if it was inside the distributor it is a hall sensor, even if the house of the sensor is broken, I could not find any loose wires, I pushed gently to see if any wire was loose, but they where not. I will try to check the Hall sensor tomorrow.

I have changed the power switching unit, but could it still be this, or can we now say it is caused by the Hall sensor ?

P.S I even measured the plug wires, they where all app 6K, and the one to the coil was about 3K

"Mike F" skrev i meld>>

> apart from that I can't see there is "There are 2 relays inside the fuel>> injection/pump relay. One of them should turn ON when the ignition is >> turned>> on (without turning over the engine), and the other relay (which actually>> turns the fuel pumps) should come ON when the engine turns over/runs.">> It is only one relay inside the fuel pump relay, neither can I find any>> other relay for injection relay, I took of the cover of the fuel pump >> relay,>> and looked the relay while I was trying to start, I could not see >> anything>> happen, so I tried again and used my finger to push down the contact, and>> then the fuel pump started, but still no action in the car, I suspect >> that I>> might have several errors, some times I have a spark, and sometimes not, >> in>> combination with fuel problem.>>

Hi Mike, Latest news, I opened the distributor again, to locate the Hall sensor. I wanted to check the Hall sensor, by measuring according to what I found on the net, to be honest I could not measure anything, so I have apparently misunderstood something.

However, I cleaned every thing also the sensor, put it all back together and to my surprise it started after that, my son have now taken 3-4 trips today, no problem so far. I guess I have been lucky, and it will only work for a day or 2, I guess that the sensor is about to quit, and that I have to start looking for a new distributor with the sensor mounted, it seems to complex to only change the sensor, I read that you should be quit skilled to do that, and I don't want to hammer anything and make it worse.

Do you agree that I now 100% could blame the Hall sensor ?, if so I can start looking for a new distributor ( find the cheapest)

Thanks for your help, it was when you told me how to measure on the coil, that the solution came.

"Mike F" skrev i meld>>

It's quite possible that the problem was just a dirty connector at the hall sensor. I've also seen the little wires break off, usually the plug breaks off the distributor and dangles by wires, I've had to epoxy a few of those.

I would look very closely at both the terminals for corrosion, and the wire harness from the Hall sensor to where it joins the main harness.

We where in heaven for 1 and a half week, now it's back.

I guess we have to change the Hall sensor (first I try the contacts again) I wish you all a nice weekend, without any stalling car's